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#1
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![]() Found this on another reef site
http://www.canreef.com/photopost/dat...erflow.jpg?316 http://www.canreef.com/photopost/dat...LOW21.jpg?4142 Does anyone see any problems with this design?Was thinking it would save space in a tank.Would be cheap as well ![]()
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______________________ Jim |
#2
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![]() interesting. Not sure about how much flow it can handle tho.
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#3
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![]() Is that an external overflow? Sorry, I'm not very techie, but I got one on my new 67g from IA. It handles flow AWESOME.
Details if you would like. ![]() |
#4
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![]() I think that design would work well.
Deb: We always want details and pictures! ![]() Walter
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*30g+- (24x16x18) *Seio 620 + MJ1200 *EuroReef 5-2 *Ebo - 100w Heater *250w PFO HQI w/XM20k |
#5
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![]() Interesting. It looks like a variation of an external Durso. I would be worried about it sucking in air and making that gurgling sound. I think this design would require you to fiddle with it a lot.
If you would like to save space in the tank, why not cut the overflow box teeth into the back pane of glass and silicone and external box that holds your standpipe? Its a heck of a lot more work, but in the end, it will look much cleaner.
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32"x32"x20" Cube-ish tank |
#6
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![]() I'd love to put an external overflow on the tank,but this glass is 1/2 inch,would take forever with my dremel
![]() Seeing that the tank is 36x24x30.5,I'm looking at all possible ways to save space with the overflow. Deb,would love to see pics of your set up as well.
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______________________ Jim |
#7
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![]() very similar to something i designed for my first tank before i ever knew there were great sites like canreef to get great advice. Had an elbow { capped}on the open end facing towards the surface with a hole drilled in it so if the water got too low it whistled and i would adjust it or top off my water.
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180g 33g sump 78g refugium triple 250w m/h & 4 flourescents on timers 2 seaclone 150 skimmers 1 redsea classic 2 250 w heaters calcium reactor. 200lbs lr Argonite dsb Corals - cracker acroporas birdsnest frags 2 torchs large moon, open brain large colt, galaxy, 3 yellow toadstools pulsing xenia buttons mushrooms polyps 2 lta\'s 2 orange sponges beautiful blue pipe sponge 4 feather dusters crabs & snails 3 cleaner 1 coral banded shrimp shrimp 2 massive scutus 8 green chromis 2 percula 1 skunk clown spotted mandarin goby lawnmower blennie golden face sandsifter gobie watchman gobie yellow tang reefhawk blue devil coral beauty royal gramma blue striped brittle star. |
#8
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![]() don't waist your time with that design, it is very simular to my original overflow. plugs up with algae fast, makes a lot of noise, and was just a bad idea. build a regular overflow box and make a durso inside of it. after trying 4 different ideas that was what I ended up with and the only one that realy worked properly.
Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#9
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![]() Thanks for the heads up,guess I'll go with the corner overflow and durso
![]() ![]() Would love to see some pics of differant overflows and how they worked out for everyone(I have a 33 that because of a measurement error ![]() ![]()
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______________________ Jim |
#10
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![]() This is one overflow I made for my tank. Worked well for the few hours I used it for. If you read my disaster thread, you'll know why. Anyhoo, the only change I'm going to make once I start it up again, is that I'll change the durso inside to 1-1/4" since the overflow piping is 1". I was told this will get rid of the toilet action. Otherwise it is extremely quiet. I have just one tiny hole at the top cap, which I can adjust by twisting it. If I could change anything else, I may of put another hole at the bottom, with another overflow pipe, just going straight up, a little lower than the top edge. This would be, in the case the durso ever got plugged, there would be a second way for the water to drain down to the sump. |