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#1
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![]() Quote:
So be it, you win some you lose some ![]() |
#2
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![]() Soooo I just found out that I need to wire a 240v receptacle for the Abyzz a200. Not a deal breaker but an added expense. I just wanted to throw that out there so anyone that is looking for one and comes across this thread gets the heads up. Back to wiring.....
I've been thinking more about the rockscape, and more specifically how to secure odd, off balanced structures. I think I will get my hands on some thicker pvc sheets and put rods into the base to secure the structures base to. Then in anticipation for the corals I wasn't to make a peg system to be able to move corals if need be. I know I have seen them on RC, but does anyone use them in their own tank. Any advice? What type of frag plugs do you use? |
#3
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![]() If I was to ever build another tank from scratch, I'd just cement everything together so it was "rock" solid. The whole make a jig saw puzzle sounds good in theory but IME it's always a constant battle of parts not going back together properly. Whether some support breaks or you move stuff around for whatever reason, it just gets f'd up. Pretty sure if my rocks couldn't move I'd have more hair and less broken objects in the tank vicinity
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#4
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![]() Quote:
I love hammer and one of the few I have to get my hands on is the orange one but they come with a nice price tag ![]() |
#5
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![]() Thanks Steve. I want to rock to be very solid, hence the base & post structure I am dreaming up. It's more the coral that I wanted to be able to remove for trimming. Or are you suggesting even moving the coral is a bad idea?
Cheers, Scott |
#6
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![]() I'm just saying from my experience once you remove rocks from the structure they don't go back in quite the same and any plastic rod system will probably eventually deform or break during the R/R process or the rock will crack/break around the drilled holes (it only takes one piece to screw the whole puzzle). Ultimately you end up with several rocks you've removed with established coral that won't go back in the structure in the same way they came out. Removing them is certainly ideal for trimming coral, cleaning or whatever but to me it's more trouble than it's worth. Better just to trim it in the tank but that's just me.
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#7
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![]() Gotcha. I was more concerned that I would put a coral frag in a poor location and have to move it. But I guess it wouldn't have encrusted into place by then anyways.
Thanks Steve! |
#8
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![]() Sleepy plug is tired....
![]() Now it just needs it's friend to show up! |
#9
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![]() Say hello to sleepy plugs little friend! Big shout out to Jean-francois at Marinetech Inc., Michael at AquaDigital and Colby at Bayside Corals for bringing it all together!
![]() ![]() And some more goodies showed up today! ![]() There is a crap load of sensors and wiring to do now! I am fighting with one little hiccup. One of my overflow return pipes is ~11/32" too low and ~1/8" too short. I can't just move the sump closer since the second line is in a perfect location already. I will either: a) cut out the 45 elbow and move it back ~1/2" to gain the 11/32" in height, then add the 11/32" PLUS the 1/8" I am already short OR b) cut out a couple inch section along the middle and use a soft silicone hose to join the two, hoping the hose will allow for the variation. Any suggestions? Cheers! Last edited by Scythanith; 10-09-2013 at 06:04 AM. |
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Tags |
abyzz, bubble king dc 250, mitras, profilux 3, reef |
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