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#11
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![]() Quote:
I really like the 20k look but growth is ssllooww. |
#12
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![]() Ya, a couple of years ago I experimented with 20K halides. I had my 22K t5s and then 20K Halides for "growing". During that time the "growing" was very very slow LOL. 14/15K is the compromise between great colouration of the 20K and growth of the 10K. It doesn't pop like 20K but grows better. Doesn't grow as well as 10k but doesn't look YELLOW either :-)
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#13
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![]() So I know the 10k will give me growth but do you think I would be able to maintain color from the 20k.
I know that when 10k is on the colors won't show. Cause there no point in doin so if I can't have the best of both worlds |
#14
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![]() Quote:
^translation: Maybe yes, maybe no :-) |
#15
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![]() What Kein said about symbiosis is very true, if you look at the oceans sps most are tanned to brown, to achieve best results we run our tanks at a much higher kelvin. I noticed the colour of the water changing as I got a few meters from the surface, it got more blue the deeper you went and acros that were deeper had some awesome colouration. Although that being said, some high light species need the blasting of 10k to hold colour. 1 species that likes that spectrum would be pink stylo, under higher k it turns more of a plum purple lower k hot pink.
I guess it's a sacrifice you will have to decide, sticking with the 14k has benefits....
__________________
Always looking for the next best coral... 90g starphire cube/400mhRadium20k/2 XHO/2x27w UV/2x39w T5/ 3 Trulumen led strips |
#16
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![]() This is probably a really stupid question but how do you calculate the colour temp of your fixture when you have 6 different bulbs? Do an average?
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4 |
#17
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![]() Quote:
I run radion so its easy to change k |