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  #1  
Old 08-23-2013, 03:25 PM
reefwars reefwars is offline
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while i was doing hypo i would switch out a piece of rock here and there just to keep things stable, although the bacteria can survive hypo 100% all the food the rock houses like pods , coraline etc. will perish so if you have say a scooter or wrasses like i do then it helps to add a fresh food source back to them.

also not all fish can be hypo'd some do not do well like leopards,mandarins, sand sifters etc.

good luck friend
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Old 08-24-2013, 05:22 PM
geweagle geweagle is offline
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Thanks Reefwars,

I have been reading and it confrimes everything you said. I am fortunately I have a small tanks. It does have sand which I was wondering about. I thought maybe it should go. Which is what you have confirmed. I will go to a refractometer. The display tank will be cleared of all fish and will have some leathers, a couple peppermint shimp and a few crabs. I will not do the hypo on that tank. just leave fowl. I will keep skimmer etc running. And leave live rock there. But maybe as you suggested cycle some into the hypo tank. But some have leathers and palyp attached so I cannot move those as I understand they will not survive. Looking like one clown may have some cryst now. Still healthy and eatting but just confirms that the ICH life cycles is alive and well.

Got to go through this because otherwise likely never be able to keep any fish.
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:45 PM
albert_dao albert_dao is offline
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If you want good advice, here's a good tip to help you filter through the noise:

Look for the nice tanks that have been around for a while.

That's it.
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Old 08-24-2013, 08:20 PM
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globaldesigns globaldesigns is offline
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I do believe the biggest problem for most in this hobby is being impatient. Key here is to take your time, go slow, do not make harsh/rash decisions.

Good example, is that Denny suggested hypo, and you are already lowering your display tank, whereas you shouldn't.

take a step back, take a breath and relax, slow down, and enjoy this hobby. We have all had our obstacles, I myself am one of them.

Do your research, but before you jump to do it, research again, make notes, analyze and then determine your approach.

Not sure what your time frame was during this, as Kien asked, what is it? I myself didn't add any fish to my tank until after 3-4 months (maybe longer). Cleaning crew was introduced between 1-2 months.

Welcome to the hobby, it is a great one!!!!
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Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite)
Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker
Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO)
Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish
Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk
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  #5  
Old 08-25-2013, 01:20 AM
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naesco naesco is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by globaldesigns View Post
I do believe the biggest problem for most in this hobby is being impatient. Key here is to take your time, go slow, do not make harsh/rash decisions.

Good example, is that Denny suggested hypo, and you are already lowering your display tank, whereas you shouldn't.

take a step back, take a breath and relax, slow down, and enjoy this hobby. We have all had our obstacles, I myself am one of them.

Do your research, but before you jump to do it, research again, make notes, analyze and then determine your approach.

Not sure what your time frame was during this, as Kien asked, what is it? I myself didn't add any fish to my tank until after 3-4 months (maybe longer). Cleaning crew was introduced between 1-2 months.

Welcome to the hobby, it is a great one!!!!
Great advice. Even reefers who have been around for a while should heed your advice
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:26 AM
geweagle geweagle is offline
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Hello Golbaldesign
Yes I would say I pushed the time but not so much. I put the custodians in after 1 month. Put the first fish in a month later so 2 months. Waited few weeks to see how they did. Everything was Ok so I got more. The Chemistry was Ok except PO4 which was high and I started a program to get it down. Understood corals need low or its effects their ability to deposit Ca. Then the red grass algae started. Thought the whole time my problem when fish started to die was chemistry. When it was ICH.

"Started to lower the salinity in the display tank". Actually I only brought it down to where it had been which was on the low side. I understood it might slow the ICH until I got the hypo tank set up. That is what I am working on now. then I will transfer the fish once it is stable. But in the mieantime I am trying not to loose more fish. looking like one clown is now infected. Still healthy and eatting at this time.

So I ask you and others. If you were loosing fish would you not try to save them? only droped the salinity from 30 ppt to 28 ppt. Will it help? Maybe not but at least I tried. Hopefully I will have the hypo tanks setup in the next couple of days.

So yes I am taking it slowly. And I really want this to work because I love the fish, corals, and overall look. But it is a lot of work to get started. And I will never put fish in my display tank again with out a good quarantine.
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Old 08-25-2013, 05:07 AM
reefwars reefwars is offline
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Another couple points is they can go in now and bring salinity down a bit at a time, they can go down im salinity quick but have to come back very slowly.

Make sure ph is roughly the same and temp stays low 77-78

Tie a air stone to your powerhead with ziptie or elastic.
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Old 08-25-2013, 05:08 AM
reefwars reefwars is offline
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Your on the right track this will allow time to stabilize your display.

Try not to freak the fish out to much
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