White balance & dull photos

Myka · #1 07-08-2013, 08:04 PM

Thanks for the replies!

I am not shooting in RAW. I don't know how to process them afterwards. I only use Picasa for photo editing, I don't have Photoshop. I don't understand what RAW even is...

I shoot in manual mode. Usually ISO is 200 or sometimes 100. I try to use the manual WB button, but rarely seem to be able to get it very good. I try to adjust with Picasa, but often the pics are beyond help.

The tank I have the most trouble with has T5s heavy in the blue - no white bulbs at all - prob around 22,000K. It is also not very bright. Maybe I just need to swap out a blue for a white when I'm taking photos (pain in the butt).

lastlight · #2 07-08-2013, 08:18 PM

I've never shot RAW either but software could really help you out.

I use Photoshop. For the most part the only adjustments I make with it are auto colour, auto contrast and auto tone. followed by unsharp mask which sharpens it. Sometimes the effect of each adjustment isn't desired and you can fade each effect from 0 - 100% to find the sweet spot.

MarkoD · #3 07-08-2013, 08:30 PM

If you're shooting 100 or 200 ISO you're gonna be at a slow shutter speed and get motion blur which is why it's not sharp

Motion blur either cuz you're hand holding the camera or cuz things in the tank are moving

sphelps · #4 07-08-2013, 08:36 PM

You should post a picture as it shouldn't be grainy at that iso. If you're having motion blur that's a separate issue but I didn't see you mention that. The issues with WB are related to your lighting, too blue by the sounds of it. The best chance you have is shooting in RAW and post processing. If you want see what the potential of doing this you can take a couple pics in RAW and email them to me for processing and I can post the results.

lastlight · #5 07-08-2013, 08:37 PM

I shoot ISO 400 and while my shots usually show some grain I prefer that to blurrier shots. For things that don't move with your flow turned off then 100 or 200 would work fine.

Myka · #6 07-08-2013, 10:11 PM

Steve, I think I will take you up on that offer. I will take some shots in RAW and email them to you. Thanks!

If I am to buy Photoshop, which one should I buy? Elements 11?

The neon areas that are out of focus actually aren't out of focus, that's not the right word. I think they are actually saturated so there is a solid blob of color with no definition.

Here's an extreme example of the color saturation and some graininess too (the photo is actually out of focus as well, but normally I don't have trouble with focus). The photo is unedited.

ISO 400 (prob why grainy)
f/5
Exposure 1/25 sec
Max aperture 3.625

Myka · #7 07-08-2013, 10:42 PM

Ok, I'm trying to take RAW photos. I have RAW+L setting "on" in the menu and also RAW chosen as size using the FUNC. SET button. This is supposed to work (according to Google)...might have to refer to user manual. *sigh* There is a RAW icon on the screen when I'm taking the photo, but when I look at the photo properties on he memory card (through my laptop) it shows the pics as jpeg files.

MarkoD · #8 07-08-2013, 10:44 PM

Raw basically means there will be no adjustment applied to the photo by the camera. Don't be surprised when the image looks dull and flat.

kien · #9 07-08-2013, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myka

Ok, I'm trying to take RAW photos. I have RAW+L setting "on" in the menu and also RAW chosen as size using the FUNC. SET button. This is supposed to work (according to Google)...might have to refer to user manual. *sigh* There is a RAW icon on the screen when I'm taking the photo, but when I look at the photo properties on he memory card (through my laptop) it shows the pics as jpeg files.

When you shoot RAW+L the camera will actually give you two image files on the memory card. One that's labelled .JPG ( the normal file you'd get; with adjustments), and a '.CR2' file (this is the RAW file with no adjustments). You want to email the '.CR2' file to Steve. Hope that helps.

Jason McK · #10 07-08-2013, 10:57 PM

It looks as though your biggest issue is the glass distortion caused by shooting at an angle through the tank glass.
As for RAW. the biggest difference is that a RAW file it between 12 and 16 bit. While a JPG is an 8bit file. Printers print in 8 bit. the idea of RAW is to allow the shooter to manipulate what 8bits are to be used rather than the camera software.
For the most point Canon, Nikon, Panasonic and so on invest millions on R&D to have the camera software be able to pick the correct 8bits. This is why for the average photographer RAW really isn't a big factor. Also you need to invest in some decent software such as lightroom to process a RAW file.

Some simple tricks to WB is to eliminate multiple colour temperatures. So if you run a 10K MH and some actinics, turn the actinics off for picture taking time.
and also try to white balance off of white.

J