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#1
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![]() If salt comes from the same BATCH, you can expect similar enough parameters from one bucket to the next but same brand?
No way... Making salt is far from an exact science and this is a pretty big assumption for you to make. You can probably get by a okay with your logic int his hobby but if you talk to any reefer worth his salt they'll tell you continuity is by far the best thing that you can offer your microcosm. and a large tank can much better handle a 50% water change as that;s the whole appeal to a large tank, the ability to better manage fluctuations that may be detrimental to a smaller system. and even in a smaller tank, a 50% water change is not a 100% water change. |
#2
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![]() I completely agree, stability is key for long term health. But when there is plenty of practical evidence showing that very large to 100% water changes harm nothing and can allow systems to maintain stocking, feeding, and dosing regiments that wouldn't otherwise be possible and still have award worthy coral growth and healthy fish, I think that should be pointed out, especially when someone is new to the hobby and is worried about moving a tank.
Anyway this is all testable. I'm doing a 100% water change on my pico in about 5 minutes. Both the bag of ceramic bio-rings in the back chamber, the rock pyre, and all the corals will be completely exposed to air for about 5 minutes. I'll do that water change, then target feed each one of my corals with meaty foods, which is about the maximum organic input this tank ever receives. I normally wait a couple of days to feed them to get the most out of my low N and P change water and discourage algae, but for this experiment I'll feed them as soon as they re-inflate. I'll test ammonia levels every day for the next week. If I get a detectable reading, I will post it in that tank's build thread. If not, I'm going to continue to operate under the assumption that any 'threat' posed by large to 100% water changes (when done right) is largely superstition. |