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#1
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![]() That's unusual, but not impossible. There seems to be different species of dinos that vary in toxicity, although I'm not sure if there actually is. Some people complain about extreme toxicity (like you're experiencing) while others have very mild toxicity. Maybe it is from inaccurate ID...who knows?
Anyway, that article I linked you to has a good step by step procedure for you although I think it doesn't put enough stress on the elevated pH. Elevating the pH has a significant effect, and is not to be overlooked. Kalkwasser is the easiest way to do this because it provides a steadier elevated pH than other methods. You will need to replace most or all of your calcium and alkalinity dosing with kalkwasser to achieve this. Make sure you have a calibrated digital pH meter to check pH rather than a drop test kit which is not accurate enough. Check pH in the morning just before lights on and in the evening just before lights out. Once you have achieved a steady elevated pH then move onto the next steps of siphoning, waterchanges, carbon, black out, more waterchanges. Keep the pH elevated for at least a week after. Here is an article by Randy Holmes-Farley that is outdated, and I think not as good as the first article I linked. However, it does give good advice for using kalkwasser to raise pH as well as calculations for you to do so at the end of the article, so check that out too. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-11/rhf/index.php Good luck! This "algae" is no fun... Last edited by Myka; 06-22-2013 at 04:13 PM. |
#2
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![]() FML.
From crash to burn.
__________________
![]() My 70 Gallon build: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=66478 My Mandarin Paradise: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72762 I wonder... does anyone care enough to read signatures if you make them really small? I would not. I would probably moan and complain, read three words and swear once or twice. But since you made it this far, please rate my builds. ![]() |
#3
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![]() At least I only have two corals.... a sinularia and rbta,
If I had corals the game would be that much tougher.
__________________
![]() My 70 Gallon build: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=66478 My Mandarin Paradise: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72762 I wonder... does anyone care enough to read signatures if you make them really small? I would not. I would probably moan and complain, read three words and swear once or twice. But since you made it this far, please rate my builds. ![]() |
#4
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![]() Oh that will make your life much easier. Do you have a QT you can move the RBTA and the one coral to? You don't want to move them into another system as they may transfer the dinos. If you can move them all out you can leave the lights off on the tank for 2 weeks for the entire treatment. Make sure you cover the tank with a blanket or something so that it is PITCH BLACK in there. Could you also move the fish? If you move the fish then you don't have to worry about spiking pH by accident or low oxygen levels.
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#5
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![]() Moving the fish would be tough.
The only tanks I have running are my breeder tanks. Might not be good move. Aeration I think can be accomPlished maybe by fuge light? Skimmer? Power heads?
__________________
![]() My 70 Gallon build: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=66478 My Mandarin Paradise: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72762 I wonder... does anyone care enough to read signatures if you make them really small? I would not. I would probably moan and complain, read three words and swear once or twice. But since you made it this far, please rate my builds. ![]() |
#6
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![]() When you're trying to keep the pH unusually high you will lower it by aerating too much - just the opposite of how you can raise pH by aerating saltwater with low pH.
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