My first aquariums - 404 display/150 frag

[Magma]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

OK then.
You're the electrician here

But it's my understanding that using a GFCI 'without' a ground probe causes it to react slower, and a GFCI 'with' a probe protects life, as far as millisecond response time goes where heart issues are concerned

Please explain how a ground probe 'can't' help trip a circuit faster than without one ....

Not saying it wont trip faster, but the fact is the ground probe will provide a path for current to flow which may not have been there before. Potential causing a problem. Personally I think if you have current flowing in the tank you should fix it ASAP and not provide a path for it.

GFI's are set to trip with 5mA difference between the lines. You might feel a slight poke but its not going to drop you to the floor before it trips. I cant see it changing the reaction time to a point it would be noticed.

IMO I think the ground probe can be ok if used correctly and you fix problems that arise. That being said, 9/10 times it makes us lazy in actually looking for the problem. So a $10 ground probe and 5 min to install problem "gone" or spend 20-30min tracing out which device is causing the leak and replacing something at a cost of 50? 100? 200? or more...your going to take the 10$ option every time and not truly fix the problem.

I wont ever use a ground probe I would rather check my devices, use drip loops and isolate myself through the use of a mat or dry towel. Be safe and smart. Just take the time to check each device and replace it its going to save a lot more in the long run.

[b09u5]

So, to catch some things up:

-No, I don't plan on using grounding probes. My mind is open to this idea and I may come around in the long run.

-I worked out something to allow every plug to be GFI. Each separate breaker at each location will have a set of 3 plugs wired like this:

Breaker A-----------GFI 1
I I
I I
I I-----------GFI 2
I
I
I-----------GFI 3

Definitely not three wires directly from the breaker as outlined, but wire through the wall to the triple box, then split to three.

_____________

Onto bigger and better things: I called in the reinforcements to finish off the plumbing and HVAC. HVAC had to be done by a pro as per The City and plumbing was going to be a pain because of the 1.5" vent line for the sump.

HVAC was simple. Core some holes:


IMG_2801 by gschaus, on Flickr

Hook up the fans, flex and insulation. Tie into existing cold air return and insulate it as well.

Exhaust:

IMG_2811 by gschaus, on Flickr

Return:

IMG_2812 by gschaus, on Flickr

IMG_2813 by gschaus, on Flickr

The only part remaining are two snorkels for the intake and exhaust vents on the outside of the house. These will get done tomorrow, at the same time as I get my main panel swapped out to gain extra room for the sub panel that I put in for this room.

The tough part was still the plumbing. Hooking up the sump was straightforward enough, and getting the vent line out of the room was easy too.

IMG_2810 by gschaus, on Flickr

The tough part was tying in the vent line to the existing vent from a downstairs bathroom. Since we had to run the vent line from the sump, up the wall, into the furnace room, we were already at the same height as the existing vent line, but were still 6 feet and 4 joists away. This meant that we had to come down three inches or so, span the joists and go up again to connect to the vent. This would have left a trap for water and would have been against code. As there are no other vents in the area, and the house is finished, the contractor suggested a 1.5" cheater vent just before we drop below the joists. This is a bit of a grey area, but he says that inspectors sign off on this stuff all of the time for island sinks, etc. where there are no options for a vent.

We will know if this is kosher on Monday, following the inspection.

Hopefully all goes well, and it will be time to vapor barrier, drywall, mud/tape, paint and build the frag stand/counter.

I have my 19mm Starfire on order and can't wait to get started on the fun stuff!

[b09u5]

First things first: All the best to everyone affected by the flooding in Southern Alberta!

And speaking of the floods in Alberta, my inspections have been re-prioritized (rightfully so), as all of the inspectors are working on assessing homes for re-entry, etc.

I don't have any idea when I will see an inspector, and the only reason I would hope for one soon, is to hope that the clean-up is quicker than anticipated.

In the mean-time, I have my concerns as to whether the work done will pass inspection at all.

Here are pics of the "1.5 inch cheater vent":


IMG_2862 by gschaus, on Flickr

And the snorkels for the intake and exhaust respectively:

IMG_2857 by gschaus, on Flickr


IMG_2856 by gschaus, on Flickr

I have concerns that the cheater vent will not be to code. And I have the same concern with the exhaust snorkel. It is my understanding that any vents need to be a minimum of 3' from any electrical junctions or windows. I would appreciate any information from anyone with an understanding of plumbing and HVAC codes.

On the upside, my new main electrical panel was installed and it looks to be done correctly, and at a pretty respectable price. Here is a pic:

IMG_2831 by gschaus, on Flickr

I am now going to frame in a bulkhead around the ventilation and wait for the inspectors. In the meantime, I'll have time to help out with the recovery.

[daplatapus]

Its been a couple years since I worked in HVAC in Alberta, but I believe you're correct. 1 meter from any exhaust vent to a building opening.
I'm not sure, but I thought they no longer allowed cheaters in the plumbing though.

[b09u5]

Thanks for the reply! The exhaust is definitely more than 1m. away from the windows and air intakes, but it is about 1ft. from the electrical junction box for my future AC and hot tub.

Agreed, the cheater vent seems like a poor substitute for doing the job correctly.

[lastlight]

Past your bedtime boss.

[b09u5]

You're right! I am out!

[b09u5]

The inspectors came on Friday and passed all the work done a few weeks back. So I am cleared to close it up and call for a final inspection.

Brett came by and helped me vapor barrier and drywall. He helped me finish off the vapor barrier, which I was struggling with. Once it was all up, I went OCD on tuck taping and he did the lower half of the drywall around the whole room.


IMG_2900 by gschaus, on Flickr

Next it will be the drywall for the upper half of the room, the ceiling and framing in the bulkhead around the HVAC and plumbing.

If anyone knows a good taping and mud person that isn't busy, let me know. I really don't feel like doing that myself.

Then some more framing for the quarantine frag tank stand/counter, and it'll be time for glass!

[lastlight]

i've heard there are tuck tape shortages in and around the calgary area!

[b09u5]

Yup! If I had one more roll, I wouldn't have needed the vapour barrier!