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Old 05-10-2013, 09:52 PM
Chatouille Chatouille is offline
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For the temp sensor, I just drilled a partial depth hole in the heatsink, and used Arctic Silver thermal epoxy to secure it in the hole. My hope is that it will get a more accurate temp of the heatsink without being affected by the fan.

Yeah the crimp ring type with the extraction/insertion tool are really nice to work with, makes changing out a bent/broken pins a breeze. Would hate to pull apart a 30+ pin solder type connector just to change out a damaged pin.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:42 PM
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daplatapus daplatapus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike31154 View Post
I guess I'm too late with this advice, but on connectors with that many pins packed tightly together, it's often a good idea to have a piece of heatshrink on the wire before soldering.
Ya ,I actually thought of that after I'd finished the first one. But what I was able to do was heat the pin up just a hair and stretch the wire insulation down over the pin. It worked really well and once the pin cooled the insulation stayed put.

I did have a buddy of mine that has the amphenol crimper and everything to do it, but these pins are meant to be soldered. The wire actually slides about 1/16" or so into the pins in a little pocket. Then one it's soldered there's nothing ever going to pull these out. It tedious work to be sure, especially those middle pins, but it works well.
And ya, I didn't want to spend the dough on the real amphenol connectors either

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chatouille View Post
For the temp sensor, I just drilled a partial depth hole in the heatsink, and used Arctic Silver thermal epoxy to secure it in the hole. My hope is that it will get a more accurate temp of the heatsink without being affected by the fan.
Yeah, I was worried the fan would affect the sensor. With all the fins on the back of this heatsink it'll just direct all the air right by the sensor. I like the idea of half drilling through the aluminum and setting in with that thermal epoxy. Did you worry about how close you were to an actual LED location?

Thanks for the feed back!
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Old 05-11-2013, 12:14 AM
Chatouille Chatouille is offline
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Yeah... the crimp type are a different animal all together. They have a nice wire stripper for it that will only strip back what’s needed.

My LED’s are spaced fairly evenly, so I wasn’t too worried. I have a row of LED's on each side, with clusters down the middle of the heatsink. I have the sensor centered width wise, but slightly offset length wise, so as not be directly under the fan. I also heat shrinked each leg on the sensor, then placed another heat shrink over everything, so that it covered up all of the legs, and what part of the sensor that was sticking out of the heatsink..... Hope that makes sense. (The sensor ended up behind one of my clusters)
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:53 PM
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daplatapus daplatapus is offline
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Just as a bit of an update, and to show I did indeed listen to you Mike here's a shot of the connectors and how I was able to stretch the wire insulation down a hair to protect the pins:

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Old 05-16-2013, 01:55 AM
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I got the new boards in today with the built in pull down resistors. Here's what they look like:



And with the order they also sent me 2 of these boards. I have no idea what they're for but if either Chris or Scubasteve want them, let me know and I'll send them with your boards.



And if you guys need any 10K resistors for these boards, let me know too as I have a bunch of them as well I can send with;

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Old 05-16-2013, 02:52 AM
reefme reefme is offline
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I just received the same boards too. Still missing the screw terminals and jumpers.
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