|
|
|
|
|
#1
04-27-2013, 03:57 PM
|
||||
|
||||
Interesting. I'd have to run the math to check it but I think the problem you were having here was the 1K resistor. The transistor might not have been at saturation and so the gain may have been too low for amplifying the PWM. I'm surprised it didn't work. I use the same circuit to control the fans on my tank.
Good call on the pull-down resistor. I always surprised people neglect them, not just for safety but also to just have a nice product. Why would you want you LEDs going to 100% any time you unplug something? 
|
|
#2
04-27-2013, 04:08 PM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
I have been using the 2n2222 for all my power control on my controller with no problem, but those LPF drivers nearly got my controller launched out the window!
__________________
View my Aquarium & Reef Controller build here:  The Ultimate DIY Aquarium Controller of the 21st Century!!! LED's, PH, Salinity, Clock, LCD, ATO, Auto Water Changer, Variable Speed Cooling Fan Control and lots, lots more......
|
|
#3
04-27-2013, 04:26 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Time to make the switch to the LDD drivers
|
|
#4
04-27-2013, 05:50 PM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Next time!
__________________
View my Aquarium & Reef Controller build here: The Ultimate DIY Aquarium Controller of the 21st Century!!! LED's, PH, Salinity, Clock, LCD, ATO, Auto Water Changer, Variable Speed Cooling Fan Control and lots, lots more......
|
Hybrid Mode
