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#1
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![]() Looks like the booster is the way to go. Will I need to plug it in when I want to use it? or is there some way to automate the process?
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#2
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![]() I think you're going to be feeding water from the hot pipe that is less ideal than the water from the cold pipes. I've heard you get elevated copper levels leaching into your hot water from the pipes but maybe that's a myth.
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#3
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![]() My goal would have been to feed both hot and cold so that it mixes to a normal temp
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#4
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![]() Why waste hot water...it's going down the drain...unless you use 100% of the elevated tds water for watering plants or whatnot. People talk about how much systems costs when up and running using hot water would just be another energy bleed. I use straight cold in Calgary and happy with the product of my unit.
I threw on a pressure gauge and adjustable valve on the water input keeping it @ 70-75psi and never looked back with any problems. Last edited by ckmullin; 03-05-2013 at 08:56 PM. |
#5
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![]() Right, Ill keep my eye open for the right deal on a booster pump then.
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#6
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![]() yeah fix the pressure with a booster pump and practice smart ro/di use. flush before and after. bypass resin until ro output is low.
i checked my unit after i was halfway done filling my new tank. it read 0 TDS after the ro membrane and that's in Calgary too. |
#7
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![]() Im eyeing this unit here as it is local to me and a great price
https://maxwaterflow.3dcartstores.co...mps_c_146.html By the looks of it there are high and low pressure switch options What should I do about those? Would this just make the pump run "on demand" with these? Im hoping for a relatively autonomous solution. Thanks! |
#8
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![]() If you are stuck on that co because it is local and you have a 100gpd RO unit then this is what you need.
https://maxwaterflow.3dcartstores.co...es-_p_554.html You never said how many gpd unit you have. There are other units on that page u linked to that would match your gpd ro if you do not have a 100gpd. The units come with instructions and they will turn on and off automatically when the pressure drops/rises. You just need a 110V outlet under the sink, or wherever your ro unit is located |
#9
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![]() As a plumber I recommend you DO NOT use warm or hot water in your RO/DI. Any potable water that passes through a boiler/heater will contain higher levels of the crap you are trying to remove reducing the life of the membranes. Do yourself a favour and get a booster pump!
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