Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board  

Go Back   Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board > General > DIY

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-05-2013, 08:29 PM
WindowMaker WindowMaker is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Peterborough, ON
Posts: 103
WindowMaker is on a distinguished road
Default

Looks like the booster is the way to go. Will I need to plug it in when I want to use it? or is there some way to automate the process?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-05-2013, 08:48 PM
lastlight's Avatar
lastlight lastlight is offline
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Calgary
Posts: 6,997
lastlight has a spectacular aura aboutlastlight has a spectacular aura aboutlastlight has a spectacular aura about
Default

I think you're going to be feeding water from the hot pipe that is less ideal than the water from the cold pipes. I've heard you get elevated copper levels leaching into your hot water from the pipes but maybe that's a myth.
__________________
Brett
My 67 392 225 101 94 34 97 404 28 93 209 gallon reef.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-05-2013, 08:49 PM
WindowMaker WindowMaker is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Peterborough, ON
Posts: 103
WindowMaker is on a distinguished road
Default

My goal would have been to feed both hot and cold so that it mixes to a normal temp
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-05-2013, 08:53 PM
ckmullin's Avatar
ckmullin ckmullin is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: calgary
Posts: 245
ckmullin is on a distinguished road
Default

Why waste hot water...it's going down the drain...unless you use 100% of the elevated tds water for watering plants or whatnot. People talk about how much systems costs when up and running using hot water would just be another energy bleed. I use straight cold in Calgary and happy with the product of my unit.

I threw on a pressure gauge and adjustable valve on the water input keeping it @ 70-75psi and never looked back with any problems.

Last edited by ckmullin; 03-05-2013 at 08:56 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-05-2013, 08:56 PM
WindowMaker WindowMaker is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Peterborough, ON
Posts: 103
WindowMaker is on a distinguished road
Default

Right, Ill keep my eye open for the right deal on a booster pump then.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-05-2013, 08:58 PM
lastlight's Avatar
lastlight lastlight is offline
Gold Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Calgary
Posts: 6,997
lastlight has a spectacular aura aboutlastlight has a spectacular aura aboutlastlight has a spectacular aura about
Default

yeah fix the pressure with a booster pump and practice smart ro/di use. flush before and after. bypass resin until ro output is low.

i checked my unit after i was halfway done filling my new tank. it read 0 TDS after the ro membrane and that's in Calgary too.
__________________
Brett
My 67 392 225 101 94 34 97 404 28 93 209 gallon reef.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-06-2013, 02:47 AM
WindowMaker WindowMaker is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Peterborough, ON
Posts: 103
WindowMaker is on a distinguished road
Default

Im eyeing this unit here as it is local to me and a great price

https://maxwaterflow.3dcartstores.co...mps_c_146.html

By the looks of it there are high and low pressure switch options What should I do about those? Would this just make the pump run "on demand" with these? Im hoping for a relatively autonomous solution.

Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-06-2013, 03:24 AM
hillegom hillegom is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1,996
hillegom is on a distinguished road
Default

If you are stuck on that co because it is local and you have a 100gpd RO unit then this is what you need.
https://maxwaterflow.3dcartstores.co...es-_p_554.html
You never said how many gpd unit you have. There are other units on that page u linked to that would match your gpd ro if you do not have a 100gpd.

The units come with instructions and they will turn on and off automatically when the pressure drops/rises. You just need a 110V outlet under the sink, or wherever your ro unit is located
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-06-2013, 05:54 AM
WarDog's Avatar
WarDog WarDog is offline
Darth Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maple Ridge, BC
Posts: 3,111
WarDog will become famous soon enough
Default

As a plumber I recommend you DO NOT use warm or hot water in your RO/DI. Any potable water that passes through a boiler/heater will contain higher levels of the crap you are trying to remove reducing the life of the membranes. Do yourself a favour and get a booster pump!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 12:24 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.