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#1
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![]() I found one online that seems like a good deal:
http://www.microscopenet.com/40x2000...ra-p-9110.html half off makes me a little nervous, but it's got an attachment for a digital camera. I think I'm going to have to end up sending the images to someone who knows better than me, as it's been about 10 years since i looked at anything through a microscope. I'm going to try and sell that as a birthday present to myself. |
#2
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#3
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![]() hehe, I've actually been wanting to get a microscope for the tank for a while, there's so many problems that can happen with a tank that are easier to solve if you can identify the problem. I can also justify getting it for school/work, so I figured I might get something pretty good. Compared to the professional biological microscopes out there though, that's a pretty cheap scope. I found a Canadian vendor who's bargain model started at 500, and their standard model started at $2500, before any of the add ons.
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#4
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![]() Quote:
doubt you'll EVER get even $200 worth of microscope use for just reef tank use and im sure the school could use the donation. |
#5
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![]() I've always wanted one to try and identify the culprit responsible for mystery zoa melting. Adam I might give you a call one of these days to stop by and power up that bad boy.
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#6
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![]() Quote:
I'm crossing my fingers that I'm going to come home to a tank that's magically fixed it's own brown slime problem, but now that I'll be able to look at it under a scope, I'm also sort of hoping it's still there. Someone came by to buy a pump off me last night and they think what I have is diatoms, which might make sense considering that this started both after my R/O membrane melted down and I started adding fish, but none of my snails will eat them, not even my mexican turbos, and they eat everything. Levi, you are more than welcome to come by and use it. This scope comes with a USB camera so we should be able to take pictures of anything we can't ID ourselves and send them to experts if that's what needs to happen. If the USB camera ends up being useful, I'll probably upgrade to the higher rez model. Also it will give ma chance to buy some frags from you, I've recently been bitten by the zoa bug, and I need more. I've also been toying with the idea of setting up my own mini C. irrritans study, I read all the published work on it, and the protocol for getting enough of it to study isn't that complicated, and could be easily accomplished with the equipment I already have. The other first order of business once I get this thing is going to be to start testing the bacterial cultures you can buy for your tank, such as Zeobak, Stability, etc. I've read in more than a few places that unless a bacterial culture is refrigerated, they're basically going to be dead by the time you get them. I've always been really curious to see if there is actually anything living in those very expensive supplements, and how long they stay alive in their bottles after you buy them. Anyway, one way or another I'm going to get a correct ID one what it is that I'm dealing with. |
#7
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![]() My microscope was cheap, around 130$ or so, but it does the job. No need to have an expensive microscope. Sure it is better than mine, and I cannot see baterias because mine does not reach that level, but I can ID fish parasites like ick or velvet, and I can ID diatome and dino easily.
It was cool to see the black bugs (ok not so cool) to ID it and do the treatment with Advantage... Here I took a video with my small kodak video cam..wish I had a microscope attachement because I did this handheld...not so easy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGJu0DitJXk but I am very tempted to buy that microscope you posted in the link... It's in my shopping cart...hmmm...pressing the checkout button....hmmm...
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... Last edited by daniella3d; 02-06-2013 at 08:49 PM. |
#8
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![]() I beat Dinos, I slowly raised alk to 10dkh, lights out for 4 days(ambient light 15 min a day to feed fish), reduced flow( it spreads it around), NO water changes ( don't know why but I know 10% daily did not help), temp 80 degrees, change socks daily(if you don't have them get them), after 4 days, blow off the rocks and vacuum the substrate.
the first time I did it I did lights out for 3 days, dino began to rear its ugly head again after a couple days, I then did a second lights out for 4 days, the dinos never reappeared (been 3 years now), I think I would have beat it the first time if I did the lights out for 4 days. Good luck
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Crap happens, that's why they sell toilet paper in 48 roll packs! |
#9
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![]() Quote:
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Brad |
#10
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![]() ????????????????????????
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