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#1
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![]() whats a good canister filter for my 45g reef, i dont what to run a skimmer just 10% water change every sunday. thanks all
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#2
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![]() What kind of reef. Ime canisters are nitrate factories if not maintained
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#3
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![]() they are more work than anything else
what were you planning to put in it? Im assuming sumpless? save money hang reactors off the back of the tank for carbon and GFO your rock, and those 2 things will keep your reef looking nice
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#4
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![]() its the deep sea aquatics neo nano 34g, 25g sump, vortec mp10, two little fishes phosban reactor, AI del sol led, 34lbs LR, 30lbs live sand, 4 fish and corals, blastos, zoos, ect. i do water changes every sunday , all i have in my sump is some black sponge filter ,and of course all the other stuff heater, etc
should i have better filtration cause iam getting this long skinny brown alge, my take is about a month old, i got cured LR and sand from an established system, anyways any help thanks |
#5
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![]() titus is right about them being nitrate factories if not maintained. that being said i ran a fluval 405 on my 60 gallon and found it to work quite well. it gave good flow in my tank. I used the stock media that came in it though there may be better choices. When i cleaned mine i would clean it using the water i removed from the tank to save anything that was living in my filter. (after a while there was a fair amount in there). If you use fresh water to clean it, don't clean all the media at once. do it in sections. this is how i did mine- week one hit your sponges, week two do your bio balls, week three do your ceramic noodles, week 4 change your carbon.
clean it once a week when you do your water changes, remove any dieatrus(sp) sitting at the bottom of the filter. Hope this helps |
#6
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![]() Quote:
edit-just noticed u said you got used live rock and sand. when ever i stir up my sand or have changed tanks i will get a small to medium cycle and a diatom bloom. all that crap from the sand gets into the water column and raised the phosphate levels. It sucks but stick with the water changes and use phosphate remover and it will fix itself. Are you using ro/di water for your water changes. if not that is going to be something your going to want to do. it is highly recommended that salt water tanks use a water source with 0 total dissolved solids. Last edited by nitro069; 02-05-2013 at 12:33 AM. |
#7
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![]() i two iam using rowaphos , iam using ro water,and no bubble attach to that alge
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#8
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![]() Is the ro water run through a Deionization stage. if not theres still a good chance you have some tds in your water
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#9
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![]() no Deionization i wander if i need a new membrain filter
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#10
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![]() Depends on the age of the membrane. should be good for about 3 years depending on the input water. typically i have found my membrane (even when brand new) leaves about 5 ppm tds. the dioonization will remove the rest of it.
(not sure if im allowed to post links but) Here is a link to a good system to ensure you have good clean water for a reasonable price. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-...tem-75gpd.html It includes a tds meter so you can keep an eye on the quality of the output water Last edited by nitro069; 02-05-2013 at 01:37 AM. |