|
|
|
|
|
#1
01-06-2013, 11:52 PM
|
||||
|
||||
Nope there actually need to be a break in the drain line one inch above the sink and then falls into the ABS drain by gravity.
|
|
#2
01-06-2013, 11:56 PM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
Oh, I get ya now
You'd think RO suppliers would include an air gap assembly in their kits
|
|
#3
01-07-2013, 12:03 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I've only seen the airgap criteria on a drinking water unit but the system is the same so why they wouldn't tell you that,
 at least from a contamination point of view is beyond me
|
|
#4
01-07-2013, 12:27 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
as long as the drain line water is "falling" into the drain you're ok. sink ,floor drain etc.min 1 inch.
|
|
#5
01-07-2013, 01:13 AM
|
|||||
|
|||||
|
I don't feel like you hijacked the thread at all. This all helps. If I don't do it with a new unit while living here I will be putting it to use when we move. (hopefully by summertime)
__________________
Lynn 75 gal Starphire front and sides with a 43 gal sump/refuge reef.
|
|
#6
01-07-2013, 01:35 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
If you need help or plumbing parts let me know,I Install these things almost daily
|
|
#7
01-07-2013, 04:53 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Get a saddle valve with a valve on it. It doesn't look like that one from BRS has a on/off valve on it.
Even if you have a ball valve to shut off to the RO unit, if something happens u want to be able to shut the source off. Also don't tighten the saddle valve too much. I crimped my pipe a bit cause i couldn't see it was squeezing so hard and I have a bad habit of over torquing things. EDIT: Ignore the first 2 lines lol. didn't read that was a DRAIN saddle valve. was wondering how it pierced the pipe.
|
Hybrid Mode
