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#1
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![]() So because I never had ich in my qt tank and just in my display, I can't get more fish and put them in the qt? I am confused.
What I think everyone is saying is that I really need to catch all the fish in the display and put them in the qt tank. Then leave the display fishless to let the ich die because it has no hosts (it won't attach to inverts). The in the qt tank make the water hypo for a period of time to make sure the ich is dead or I could use copper. Once I know it is dead then I can put the in the display (after water matching). Then I can get more fish in the qt. Where is an awesome place to get fish in Calgary once I have the ich sorted? What fish would people recommend? |
#2
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![]() I think what people are suggesting is to capture all your current fish in your tank and put them in to a QT tank with the newcomers. then leave the main display tank completely fishless for 10 weeks and treat the QT with hyposalinity for that same time period.
If you don't have corals or many inverts I might suggest gathering up any inverts or corals and putting them into another smaller tank and treating your DT with hyposalinity for 2 months...otherwise you going to need a big QT tank with that many fish. for the other question, use cupramine for treatment if you are going to use copper and make sure you test and retest...follow the directions as they as put forth by seachem..or the copper will kill your fish as quickly as the ich. make sure you buy a chemical test kit. copper will not destroy the biological filtre...however, any inverts in your tank will die off which could cause an ammonia spike...and if you test for ammonia, the copper in the system will cause a slight reading of ammonia. I personally would suggest hyposalinity of around .10 for 2 months if you know it is only ich and not marine velvet.
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Way too much time and money has gone into this hobby....and yet, I CAN'T STOP |
#3
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![]() Correct, that's what we're saying.
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Brad |
#4
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![]() I think 10 weeks might be a bit aggressive, once fish are removed worst case all the ich will be in Tomonts within 24 hours and that stage can only last up to 4 weeks after which they hatch and can only survive a couple days without a host. So realistically 5 weeks is actually enough, 6 weeks to be safe, 10 weeks to be overkill.
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#5
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![]() And do not use the water from the DT for your water changes. Got it? Good!
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#6
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![]() Quote:
ETA: stupid auto-correct, though '...produce viable and infective tomatoes' did read pretty well for an auto-correct fail. |