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#11
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![]() Gooooooddddd idea Myka.
I'll try that before I make the move. Ok, I added a piece to my existing reef under a bright spot. Wait and see now. Thank you all for your suggestions and please keep them coming. |
#12
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![]() Myka, can you elaborate on the Lanthanum chloride?
I've never heard of it before. Thanks. |
#13
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![]() if im not mistaken lanthanum chloride is the chemical found in foz-down. you just add it at your filter sock/ floss and it binds to the phosphate taking it out of solution in the water so your filter media can snag it. then you just remove the filter media and replace with fresh
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#14
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![]() Anyone else successfully move a reef using eco rock?
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#15
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![]() my first upgrade i added 150lbs of dry base rock and transefferd 100% succesfully, second upgrade i added 200lbs of base rock to the previous rock and was succesfull again but now I'm fighting phos from lack of curing either time..
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http://plentyoffishandcoral.proboards.com/index.cgi |
#16
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![]() Cuz, how much phosphate are you measuring?
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#17
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![]() Quote:
I used base rock without curing- took probably a $1000 in phosphate removers and MASSIVE hair algae problems to finally beat it I would never again not cure it first and make sure it's PO4 free
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#18
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![]() I don't understand some of these phosphate problems. Some say you should cure the eco rock for 3 to 4 months first. Those who didn't are fighting phosphate 6 months to a year later. Wouldn't the eco rock have cured in 3 to 4 months in either case? I'm starting to think some of these phosphate problems are unrelated.
On another note have been soaking my eco rock for week now with no rise in phosphate. I'm going to watch it for a month or so to see what's what. |
#19
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![]() Do you have lights for your new tank?If you have not already, I would add some seed rock to your new tank and throw on your lights.
Last edited by FitoPharmer; 12-05-2012 at 04:26 AM. |