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#1
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![]() The eco rock has no organics to cure and should slowly seed from the existing live rock, shouldn't it?
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#2
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![]() Next time you do a water change, put all that water in the new tank, get the new tank to about 50/50 of water from the old tank and the new. continue testing for a week or so, but everything should be good to transfer over. Shouldnt need to re-cycle with 50/50 water. You will need to re-place every piece though as flow and lighting will be different then the other tank.
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#3
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![]() Make sure you cure the new base rock. I didn't and am thinking it may be the cause of my high phosphate battle!!
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http://plentyoffishandcoral.proboards.com/index.cgi |
#4
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![]() The Eco Rock is probably a phosphate sink right now, test the water and see what you have. There are some great products out there you can use to knock that phosphate out real fast like Lanthanum chloride which I think is best used during the curing process rather than after the tank is running.
I would hesitate to transfer your tank is one day to a tank with that much base rock. Personally, I would want the new tank running for at least 3 months using a fair amount of live rock to seed that base rock. |
#5
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![]() I'm confused why he wouldn't be able to make the move over...The Eco-rock doesn't need to cycle really...there are no dead organics. What it needs now is the liverock from the current tank to further seed the new rock. As long as he doesn't increase the bioload or change anything else (match salinity and temp) then what is there to fail. If the Eco-rock is high phosphates, then get rid of that first.
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#6
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![]() +1 on the above. Just add some LR from your current tank with no corals, turn your lights on, and keep your temp slightly higher if you can easily. Test in a few weeks. If your parameters are good your transfer will be fine. Temp and salinity are your main concerns as mentioned before.
Oh yeah... Forgot to add.. Your current tank is CRAZY!!! Very nice work indeed. Last edited by FitoPharmer; 12-03-2012 at 06:32 PM. |
#7
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![]() And if you are not in a rush, do it in stages. Might as well not put all your eggs in one basket.
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So many ideas, so little money! |
#8
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![]() Quote:
I used base rock without curing- took probably a $1000 in phosphate removers and MASSIVE hair algae problems to finally beat it I would never again not cure it first and make sure it's PO4 free
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC |
#9
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![]() I don't understand some of these phosphate problems. Some say you should cure the eco rock for 3 to 4 months first. Those who didn't are fighting phosphate 6 months to a year later. Wouldn't the eco rock have cured in 3 to 4 months in either case? I'm starting to think some of these phosphate problems are unrelated.
On another note have been soaking my eco rock for week now with no rise in phosphate. I'm going to watch it for a month or so to see what's what. |
#10
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![]() Do you have lights for your new tank?If you have not already, I would add some seed rock to your new tank and throw on your lights.
Last edited by FitoPharmer; 12-05-2012 at 04:26 AM. |