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  #1  
Old 11-16-2012, 12:07 PM
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Spyd Spyd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FragIt Dan View Post
I don't think that pH reading is accurate. Unless your top off water is low pH and your aren't letting it stand, or your dKh is way low, that pH is not really possible (pH equilibrium point is almost entirely controlled by ambient CO2). If you are dumping top off water in all at once you might want to check the pH of it first as it may be shocking your tank, or even better yet let it stand for a day before you add it. Your nitrate is a bit of a concern and you list nitrite both at 0 and at 5-10ppm... if it is not zero this is cause for concern. Water changes are a quick way out, but why are they there in the first place?
I agree. Your nitrates are high which is never a good thing. Also, do you have an ALK test kit at all? May want to test that as well just to make sure your tank is in the right range. Low ph tells me that your alk levels might be quite low as well.
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Old 11-16-2012, 01:18 PM
jords jords is offline
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This is in regards to I think the 1st reply on this thread (about pH buffers)...
IMO, I wouldn't use them. It causes huge swings in the pH levels of the tank, which isn't good. Clearly, something is happening to drop the pH levels. Adding a pH buffer to the tank will yes, raise your pH, but then it's just going to drop again. I'd look at your rock (base and live), is it cooked+cured? Test the pH of your top-off water (which should be RO/DI anyway). Also has your pH always been that low? Look at your salt mix. Is the brand "Top Fin" (from Petsmart). If it is, just throw it out now - that stuff is nothing but problems in my experience. Avoid at all costs the use of pH buffers - you shouldn't raise the pH more than 0.2 in 24 hours anyway, so it's going to take you a long time to bring it up - and if something is happening to lower it anyway, you're just going to create big swings in the pH, which is terrible for tanks (especially for your RBTA). Also, do some big water changes (depending on your live rock situation and length of time you've had this set up). I'd be doing like 20% every 2 days or so to bring those nitrates/nitrites down. And as mentioned above, test the alkalinity.
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Old 11-16-2012, 04:48 PM
mohammadali mohammadali is offline
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i dont have liverock in my main i put all the liverock in breeding tank till the percula lay eggs
ill bring all the liverock in main tank
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  #4  
Old 11-16-2012, 05:24 PM
ScubaSteve ScubaSteve is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jords View Post
This is in regards to I think the 1st reply on this thread (about pH buffers)...
IMO, I wouldn't use them. It causes huge swings in the pH levels of the tank, which isn't good. Clearly, something is happening to drop the pH levels. Adding a pH buffer to the tank will yes, raise your pH, but then it's just going to drop again. I'd look at your rock (base and live), is it cooked+cured? Test the pH of your top-off water (which should be RO/DI anyway). Also has your pH always been that low? Look at your salt mix. Is the brand "Top Fin" (from Petsmart). If it is, just throw it out now - that stuff is nothing but problems in my experience. Avoid at all costs the use of pH buffers - you shouldn't raise the pH more than 0.2 in 24 hours anyway, so it's going to take you a long time to bring it up - and if something is happening to lower it anyway, you're just going to create big swings in the pH, which is terrible for tanks (especially for your RBTA). Also, do some big water changes (depending on your live rock situation and length of time you've had this set up). I'd be doing like 20% every 2 days or so to bring those nitrates/nitrites down. And as mentioned above, test the alkalinity.
Sorry rag on you but I've got to disagree with you on the buffers, man. While I personally don't normally advocate buffers as there are much more effective ways to stabilize pH, this is a situation where it might be necessary to pull levels back into the safe zone. pH 7.4 is about the point where corals start to drop like flies. A buffer can cause a big swing... if you dump a whole bunch in. If you take it slow (ie. 0.2/ day) you'll be fine (hence why I suggested talking to Jon as he's a pro with buffers). Once you've reached the pH the buffer works at and only need to make small additions everyday, they actually work amazingly well for holding the pH steady; especially for someone who has no other way of controlling the calc, alk and pH (kalkwasser, 2-part, calc reactor, etc.). My assessment of the situation tells me that suggesting the more complicated means of fixing pH isn't going to do a lot of good for this reefkeeper.

I agree with the water changes. Lots of them. You have no liverock in there to denitrify and that alone is probably a major contributor to the goings on of that tank. If you've been doing fairly frequent water changes, they're probably not doing a whole lot for your pH, in which case you should consider some way or rectifying the problem... a buffer would be the bare minimum. Either it's a crappy salt or you've got a more fundamental issue at hand (ie. poor ventilation of the room, low oxygen exchange at the water surface, etc.)
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Old 11-17-2012, 02:46 AM
mohammadali mohammadali is offline
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i changed about 5g water and i added some kh buffer in the 5g water i raised the salinity higher to 1.27 so far my cleaner shrimp is doing good
ill go to jl tomorrow ask john about this problem
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  #6  
Old 11-17-2012, 03:02 AM
monocus monocus is offline
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take a sample of water in or if your in the area bring me a sample and i'll do some tests with my checkers.it looks like you have sponge on your coral
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Old 11-17-2012, 03:04 AM
monocus monocus is offline
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it also looks like you have diatoms on your sand bed-how long has the setup being running
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