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#1
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![]() Quote:
I believe molotov is talking about an incorrect statement in an earlier post that you need a GFCI for each device. |
#2
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![]() That was me with the incorrect statement about GFIs and thank you for correcting me on it because when I got into aquariums 18 yrs ago the GFIs I had would do nothing with power bars and ended up buying 9 GFIs for the 3 tanks I ran.
How things change over the years |
#3
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![]() Voltage and current can leak threw the tank without you putting ur hand in as for fish well think of a bird on a line my hand was fully submerged and nothing until I put my hand on the tank witch then created a circuit as treated me as ground
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25 gallon reef 80 gallon reef in construction |
#4
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![]() Oops my bad didn't read that last one you put there mr out of controll
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25 gallon reef 80 gallon reef in construction |
#5
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![]() Lol I find your persistence almost as amusing as your lack of knowledge with respect to basic electricity! Poor old George Simon Ohm is rolling is rolling over in his grave as you are trying to prove him and his basic electrical law wrong.
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#6
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![]() Sorry sir I did not realize myself and others, were in the presence of a master electrician and electrical engineer yes I do have a lack of understanding but instead of being a troll use ur super brain and write a post on what people can do to protect them selfs, equipment they can use ext this post was not intended to mock or become ****ing contest with any but rather just another tool any one look at for reference on proper equipment and installation ect.
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25 gallon reef 80 gallon reef in construction |
#7
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![]() As long as we run our systems with the electrical gizmos required to keep them running, there will be a risk of shock. The best we can do is minimize that risk by using GFI devices, keeping electrical cords out of the water and generally being aware/cognizant of the danger when volts & amps are associated with salt water.
I've seen folks with power bars & non moisture proof lamps mounted way too close above their sumps. I also still see people totally submerging heaters in the water, cord & all. I know enough about the hazards of water/electricity not to take a manufacturer's word that a heater is fully submersible. These things are mass produced and all that stands between you & death is an epoxy or rubber seal that will deteriorate with age, as will the cord as already mentioned. Just because they are UL listed or CSA approved doesn't mean there's an official at every plant watching how these things run off the line. Even if there was, he/she is not going to get out a megger & measure the the resistance of each one between the insulated parts of the heater & the electrical contacts. Meat inspectors can't possibly check every carcass in every slaughter house either. If you value your safety & those venturing near your tank, keep the control head & electrical cord of your heater above the water level. Common sense! If you value your safety, have drip loops in all your cords, keep power bars & open electrical receptacles away from salt water or humid environments! They will corrode/deteriorate over time. Don't be grabbing your light fixture at the same time you stick your hand in the water. Some basics to minimize risk of electrocution: The fewer cords anywhere near your tank, the better. One reason I like VorTech pumps is the cord is outside the tank & they run on low voltage direct current as opposed to household alternating current. I'm more than willing to put up with the extra sound the dry side makes in exchange for the added safety factor. Use an external return pump as opposed to an internal one. One more cord & motor not exposed to water 24/7. Use GFI devices, as if that hasn't been hammered into this thread already. Jury is out on ground probes. Personally I think they're more of a hazard than anything. If you do use a ground probe you really need to make sure every one of the devices associated with your tank is GFI protected. Go LED if you can. Low voltage lighting is much safer around the water than the relatively high voltages associated with Halide & Fluorescent lighting. Only items in my water with a cord attached anymore are heaters & I'm looking for a way to heat the water by other means, perhaps an under tank heating mat, like in floor heating or something. A little extreme maybe, but an idea nevertheless. Other item is a small Aquaclear powerhead feeding my skimmer, but I make sure the cord is above the water surface. In the end, it doesn't matter whether the powerhead or heater is small or large with respect to wattage, bottom line is, they are fed by a 120 volt AC 15 amp circuit breaker & if something goes wrong, that's the potential shock hazard.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 11-15-2012 at 01:28 AM. |
#8
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![]() Mike, based on all your info, I'm as good as dead
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Brad |
#9
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![]() Seriously guys, this thread is really shocking!
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#10
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![]() Well, I got carried away again a bit I reckon. Watched the thread develop & was eating popcorn for a while, but then couldn't resist the long winded saga.
In the end, it's a crap shoot. Some of us are destined to become statistics, most of us will muddle thru with some good fortune. Edit: You're now no longer a member of the Losers Without LEDs club, so that's one step in the safe direction (according to Mike), even if it's not working for a coral or two....
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 11-15-2012 at 01:58 AM. |