Scubadawg's 187 Gallon Tank Journal - Edmonton

[sphelps]

Don't get caught up trying to replicate the bean to closely, you got the right idea just need a little tweaking.

You have two options, convert to straight herbie or a modified version of beanaminal.

For Herbie:
Change the drain with the ball valve into a second back up just like the center drain.
Now just use the gate valve drain to adjust overflow water height just below the two back up drains. Be sure to test it with gate valve fully closed to insure the back ups can take full flow without tank overflowing, shouldn't be an issue but some make the back up pipe(s) too high.

For Beananimal
Change the drain with the ball valve to standpipe, durso, stockman or HGB, doesn't really matter but durso is more common.
The height of the standpipe needs to be lower than center back up but higher than primary gate valve drain.
You adjust gate valve so you get a little flow through the standpipe, with a small amount of water flow it should still be quiet but in theory not as quiet as pure herbie.
The advantage here is the system is more flexible, flow rate can change slightly and it should still be quiet, basically less need for periodic adjustment.

Here's a durso pic for ref.

[scubadawg]

Thanks Sphelps

From my understanding I need 2 of these, one with a hole on top drilled and fitted with a pipe, the primary is a complete siphon, how low should the pipe be?

I just turned the pipe towards the outside for a better photograph

FYI: the other side I have a ball valve, the open stand pipe is in the center, because I cannot reach the center once the tank is in place

[sphelps]

Nope that's not what you want. I'll draw a little picture for you in a sec.

[sphelps]

This should be more clear, it's basically beananimal which is a herbie overflow with an extra drain and a standpipe.



You can set the operating water level height by the height of the standpipe, it's low in this example but it gives you the idea. See previous durso image for standpipe details.

[scubadawg]

Originally Posted by sphelps

This should be more clear, it's basically beananimal which is a herbie overflow with an extra drain and a standpipe.



You can set the operating water level height by the height of the standpipe, it's low in this example but it gives you the idea. See previous durso image for standpipe details.

Thanks
In the original way I have it setup is exactly as your diagram except my left tube, I have a straight pipe like the right side, I do have a ball valve there, you can see it between the 2 unions, so basically I just need a T fitting for the durso.

[Werbo]

Tagging along.
Sphelps you drawing is excellant and answers many of my questions. Thx.

[sphelps]

Originally Posted by scubadawg

Thanks
In the original way I have it setup is exactly as your diagram except my left tube, I have a straight pipe like the right side, I do have a ball valve there, you can see it between the 2 unions, so basically I just need a T fitting for the durso.

Yeap that's cause I drew it up just for you. The ball valve won't serve much purpose but it's already there so no point taking it out. Just watch your heights, the primary needs to be a decent amount below your operating water level to prevent a vortex and your back up can't be too high either otherwise it won't take the full flow. Things look a bit high in your pics but its hard to tell.

[scubadawg]

Originally Posted by sphelps

Yeap that's cause I drew it up just for you. The ball valve won't serve much purpose but it's already there so no point taking it out. Just watch your heights, the primary needs to be a decent amount below your operating water level to prevent a vortex and your back up can't be too high either otherwise it won't take the full flow. Things look a bit high in your pics but its hard to tell.

In the photo of post 26 could I just drill a hole instead of using a T fitting? and put a valve there,or is it better getting a T?

Thanks
Yung