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Old 10-21-2012, 09:09 PM
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I feel your pain Brad, I just lost a pair of Golden Butterflies and a Blond Naso. On top of that the Emperor Angel isn't looking too good either. Not sure I'll continue QT at this point, all fish were healthy and doing well, QT tanks are quite large considering and fully cycled with everything you would normally include. At this rate it hardly seems worth the effort, if you have to keep buying new fish to put into to QT it won't take long to exceed the value of the whole tank, a total wipe-out is rare and starting to seem well worth the risk.
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reefermadness View Post
The best qt is one that runs inline with the display IMO. Also with the option of taking it offline if you need to treat.
That is basically the same as putting them directly into your DT.

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Originally Posted by sphelps View Post
I feel your pain Brad, I just lost a pair of Golden Butterflies and a Blond Naso. On top of that the Emperor Angel isn't looking too good either. Not sure I'll continue QT at this point, all fish were healthy and doing well, QT tanks are quite large considering and fully cycled with everything you would normally include. At this rate it hardly seems worth the effort, if you have to keep buying new fish to put into to QT it won't take long to exceed the value of the whole tank, a total wipe-out is rare and starting to seem well worth the risk.
I agree! I have lost a Leopard Wrasse, Powder blue tang, royal gramma and yellow coris wrasse all within the last while in QT. I have a couple more in there now that look good but then again the others did too right up until they died. Im starting to think that a quick freshwater dip or formalin bath and then into the DT may be the way to go..
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  #3  
Old 10-21-2012, 09:40 PM
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I have had some really bad luck with quarantine tanks to, my solution was just to stop buying fish!
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by windcoast reefs View Post
I have had some really bad luck with quarantine tanks to, my solution was just to stop buying fish!
Agreed, although my collection still wants a leopard wrasse and anachilles tang. Once I've got those, I'm done.
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Old 10-22-2012, 02:03 AM
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I did a quarantine on a leopard wrasse for 6 weeks in a 15 gallons tank, a little bit of sand and some pieces of cured totoka liverock. No problem.

Was it really ammonia that killed your fish? if you tested for ammonia and it was very high then yes your QT water is not set up properly and is responsible for the death of the fish...

but if you did not have ammonia in the tank and the fish died, there was something else, maybe a parasite on the gills? What do you think the wrasse died from?

Was the fish eating well?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquattro View Post
Agreed, although my collection still wants a leopard wrasse and anachilles tang. Once I've got those, I'm done.
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Last edited by daniella3d; 10-22-2012 at 02:07 AM.
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Old 10-22-2012, 03:15 AM
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If you don't quarantine, by the time you notice something wrong with your fish, your entire system will most likely be infected.
turning the second tank off from the system will not work as it will already be too late. Therefore, there is absolutely no point in having a second tank attached to your main system as a quarantine. Parasites will swim around the water, find the overflow and be in the other tank in no time.

appearance of a fish means nothing...fish can show absolutely no signs of illness and then be dead within 48 hours.
Fish that die from marine velvet often don't even show signs.
those that do show signs, by the time they do it is often too late for treatment unless you agressively treat with copper.

The store could have the fish for months..but what else have they recently added to the same system.
there are too many variables for you to know the status of fish that you are buying out of most fish stores unless they have separated the fish and quarantined them for at least 3 weeks and not added anything else that hasn't been quarantined.

I have had fish come in...be fine in quarantine for 2 weeks..just about to put them into one of my main system and all of a sudden they have ich.

if you can financially afford to run a quarantine...run it.
realistically, to be completely sure that your fish doesn't have something you miss, you should treat the quarantine with copper or by hypsolanity.
both should be done for at least 4 weeks, if not 6 weeks to make sure that you have a parasite free fish.
otherwise you are taking your chance everytime.
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Last edited by howdy20012002; 10-22-2012 at 03:24 AM.
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Old 10-22-2012, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howdy20012002 View Post
If you don't quarantine, by the time you notice something wrong with your fish, your entire system will most likely be infected.Are you speaking from experience or just guessing?
turning the second tank off from the system will not work as it will already be too late. Therefore, there is absolutely no point in having a second tank attached to your main system as a quarantine. I laid out some reasons but you choose to ignore them. The tank is mostly to allow the new fish to acclimate to captive life with out aggression and competition (for food) from other fish. This a lone came be life saving for some fish. Parasites will swim around the water, find the overflow and be in the other tank in no time.

appearance of a fish means nothing...fish can show absolutely no signs of illness and then be dead within 48 hours.
Fish that die from marine velvet often don't even show signs.
those that do show signs, by the time they do it is often too late for treatment unless you agressively treat with copper.

The store could have the fish for months..but what else have they recently added to the same system.
there are too many variables for you to know the status of fish that you are buying out of most fish stores unless they have separated the fish and quarantined them for at least 3 weeks and not added anything else that hasn't been quarantined.

I have had fish come in...be fine in quarantine for 2 weeks..just about to put them into one of my main system and all of a sudden they have ich.If you experience is with ICH than I say to you that even fish and systems that show no signs of ICH for years carry ICH. Also ICH will go away on its own 99% if there are no underlying factors (agression, stress, bad water quality) and the fish is eating

if you can financially afford to run a quarantine...run it.I agree....like I said best practice is a seperate system where the water quality is as good as the display....my suggestion is in second place sure but there are some obvious benefits. Also I would like to point out that a tank tied in like that adds to the water volume which is good all the time. When you do decide to buy a fish, which most of use dont know when that happens exactly, this tank is ready to be used right away
realistically, to be completely sure that your fish doesn't have something you miss, you should treat the quarantine with copper or by hypsolanity.
both should be done for at least 4 weeks, if not 6 weeks to make sure that you have a parasite free fish.Be careful as copper can affect water quality
otherwise you are taking your chance everytimeseems like we are always taking chances in this hobby.
.

Last edited by reefermadness; 10-22-2012 at 02:00 PM.
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  #8  
Old 10-22-2012, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniella3d View Post

Was it really ammonia that killed your fish? if you tested for ammonia and it was very high then yes your QT water is not set up properly and is responsible for the death of the fish...

Was the fish eating well?
No, no ammonia, 100% of the water was new. The fish had only arrived 2 days earlier at the LFS and not eating yet, it had buried in the sand in a small container we had put it in. I thought taking home to a larger tank with rock would help, but apparently not. It was on it's side when I got it home, and never recovered.
My previous wrasse behaved the same, but came out of the sand in a day or two and was fine after that.
I find these are timid fish to acclimate, and the LFS only has larger gravel in the fish tanks, so it wouldn't be able to bury itself in there well.

As for the QT tank, not sure if it's too new or not, but I was rushing around getting it set up Friday night. Now I'll just keep a spare tank running and use it to acclimate new fish and hold surplus corals. If I have to treat the fish, I'll move it to a smaller treatment tank.
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:20 AM
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Not that it helps at all, but in my experience, wrasses can be 50/50 whether or not they will make the transistion from the ocean to the tank.
unfortunately a lot more of them don't make it than we would like to admit.
It probably wasn't anything you did or could have done differently.
just not a really hardy species over all.
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