What else can I do?

[coolhandgoose]

Do you have a pic so we can compare algaes? Good luck with the system.

My corals are definitely doing better right now with the recent changes. I have zoas that have been closed for 2 months opening for the first time.

I'm gonna do a phosphate check with my Hanna and test the tank water and the output from the reactor.

[coolhandgoose]

Phosphate test:
Tank water is .02
Water from reactor is .00

[Enigma]

Originally Posted by coolhandgoose

Phosphate test:
Tank water is .02
Water from reactor is .00

Are your lights out?

I was measuring 0.03 for phosphates when the lights were on. When I tested after my lights had been off for a couple of hours my phosphate was 0.26.

I'm assuming that as the cyano receded at night that it released the phosphates back into the water column.

I very conservatively dosed some Phosbuster Pro and changed my ROWAphos, and now the tank is measuring 0 at night (except for the 48 hours when I had my fluid reactors shut off for Chemiclean).

If it is cyano, you may need to treat the tank again. Did any of this stuff die when you used it? Did you turn your lights out?

When you did your 48 hour water change did you siphon all of the gunk out? I siphoned everything out with airline hose, and while it took forever, I got an amazing amount of garbage out of the tank with very good control. There was a lot more crap in my tank's sandbed than I realized.

I'm not sure if dinos are gram negative or not, so I don't know if Chemiclean would work on it.

Edit: according to this article, the bacteria in dinos may be gram negative: http://www.sb-roscoff.fr/Phyto/Repri...JPhycol_02.pdf

If that's the case, I would expect to have seen some negative reaction to the Chemiclean from it.

[coolhandgoose]

Originally Posted by Enigma

Are your lights out?

I was measuring 0.03 for phosphates when the lights were on. When I tested after my lights had been off for a couple of hours my phosphate was 0.26.

I'm assuming that as the cyano receded at night that it released the phosphates back into the water column.

I very conservatively dosed some Phosbuster Pro and changed my ROWAphos, and now the tank is measuring 0 at night (except for the 48 hours when I had my fluid reactors shut off for Chemiclean).

If it is cyano, you may need to treat the tank again. Did any of this stuff die when you used it? Did you turn your lights out?

When you did your 48 hour water change did you siphon all of the gunk out? I siphoned everything out with airline hose, and while it took forever, I got an amazing amount of garbage out of the tank with very good control. There was a lot more crap in my tank's sandbed than I realized.

I'm not sure if dinos are gram negative or not, so I don't know if Chemiclean would work on it.

Hmmm interesting....

I will check the phosphates first thing in the morning, I do notice it gets worse as the day goes on.
I siphoned out a lot of the gunk for sure. Also I had no sand bed in the tank when I did it.
I did not have the lights off for the treatment.

Thanks for all the responses. I really appreciate it. I'm really working hard to get my tank tip top this month.

[Enigma]

What kind of bulbs do you have?

In my digging, I discovered that Cree cool white LEDs cover the spectrum that cyano thrives in. I had my cano problem mostly under control, and then I switched out my t5s (2-Blue+, 1-Coral+, and 1-Purple+) for LEDs (Sol Blues). The cyano exploded over the course of a few hours, and I can only assume it was the spectrum provided by the cool white LEDs that did it.

[coolhandgoose]

I have t5s
2x ati 12000k
2x ati 20000k
1x ati 420 actinic
1x kZ Fiji purple

I just put them in 4 days ago in an attempt to get rid of the algae problem. The previous bulbs were over a year old.

[Enigma]

I don't think any of those bulbs should be an issue. It is the shorter wavelengths that cyano likes.

http://www.aslo.org/lo/toc/vol_37/issue_2/0434.pdf