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#1
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![]() Quote:
![]() For TT, a power head, a air pump, a heater, some pvc pipes and an ammonia indicator. only NH4 with a NH4 badge. prazipro on every fish. Other meds(antibacterial, chloroquine phosphate for other parasites) case by case. prime for neutralizing NH4. dips for coral. Quote:
Fish, 6+ weeks. invert a couple weeks. coral no specific timeline. Whenever I feel it's safe to move the coral from the frag tank to the main tank I will do it. Quote:
I understand that not everyone wants to set up a QT system like I do. But when you have a collection of rare fish (read expensive), you want to do what you can to make sure nothing bad getting into your DT. |
#2
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![]() My apologies I should have said fish, coral and other inverts
![]() Thanks for sharing George, I'm curious how you quarantine your inverts (everything except coral) as it wasn't specific. Separate from fish I'm guessing and just strictly for monitoring? No treatments? Also interesting idea regarding a frag tank, however I think most of us with frag tanks have it directly connected to the display so perhaps not a safe qt in this manor, I'm guessing yours is separate? When I mentioned my interest in quarantining inverts I was speaking more along the lines of parasites live ich and velvet. It's my understanding that while these parasites do not effect inverts they can however be transported through their source water, how can one prevent this when coral skeleton or attached rock is porous. Is a dip sufficient? For those people who are serious about quarantine, what is your approach? |
#3
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![]() I don't add anymore fish (I'm maxed up), but I quarantine corals. I quarantine one coral/tank for six weeks, with weekly dips. I use small QTs 1.5-2 gal, heater, Red Sea Prism skimmer, ATO with float switch and aqualifter, DIY led light (10w hybrid with lens),Koralia 1 power head. If the frag is big enough I cut it off the base(plug) and remount it on a new plug. Discard the old base, dip the frag and start quarantine.
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#4
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![]() Fish do 6+ Weeks in a 29 gal with a heater, powerheads and an airstone.. Waterchanges.weekly or according to the ammonia badge thingy (which never registered and I suspect is a POS). Corals get a dip in my flavor of the moment iodine based treatment (coral rx?)
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#5
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![]() So in terms of preventing parasites that target strictly fish from introducing corals and other inverts I see four options
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#6
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![]() I have a 30 gallon QT and a 33 gallon QT. Plus, I have a 12 gallon Nano Cube that I can use for a QT. The 30s are stacked one over the other on a metal stand in my laundry room. I use 36" two bulb T5 fixtures over both: one hangs from the ceiling and the other sits on the bottom tank.
For filtration, I have a Fluval 305 canister filter that is filled with Matrix, and I also have a Marineland Emperor 280 biowheel filter which gets filled with Matrix. The Matrix and the biowheel are stored in the sump of my display system when my QT isn't in use: to keep them seeded with bacteria. I run an airstone, and whatever heaters and powerheads I find laying around. I generally keep the QT lower flow. I dose prophylactically with ParaGuard (four weeks) and Prazi-Pro (two weeks). Also, depending on what medication I'm using, I dose Prime regularly. I check ammonia twice a day. That's all I check. I typically don't do any waterchanges during the Prazi-Pro treatment, but I do regular water changes when dosing the ParaGuard. I have had an ammonia spike in my QT (nearly lost my Scooter) and I nearly lost my itty bitty Fox Face to too much flow. Worth noting is that both of these incidents occurred when I used the Nano Cube for the QT, and not one of the bigger tanks. Clearly, what I'm saving in reduced medication and Prime costs in the smaller tank are being offset by greater risk to the livestock. Not a good trade off, IMO. I have never had a close call of any sort in my 30s. I have PVC pipes for the QTs, and I do use some rock in them. I may, depending on the species of fish, also use sand in the QT. I don't QT inverts, though I feel quite strongly that I should. I'm confused about how to feed them. I'll be doing a big invert order from J&L in a month or so, so I need to figure that out. I don't QT coral any more, as my QT lighting systems aren't enough to sustain most corals. When I do my LED build for my display system I'll move the display tank's T5 fixture over to a QT tank for corals (though the 33 gallon QT tank will be replaced by a 23 gallon long: 36x12x12). |
#7
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![]() Hi Shelley, I see you don't use any copper treatments, do you find ParaGuard effective enough for all external parasites?
Last edited by sphelps; 10-02-2012 at 06:09 PM. |