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#1
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![]() Chemistry looks fine, but I doubt the NO3 is 0. Really tough to get no nitrate at all. I'd double check that on a different kit. Browned out is too much zooxanthellae in the coral tissue. Which means probably nutrients, coupled with maybe higher temp.
What is the temp?
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Brad |
#2
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![]() I'm running my temp ~80o.
I agree with the nitrates. I'm using an API test kit for nitrate. However, i have been using Red Sea for Ca, PO4, Mg, and alk. I can definitely turn down the temp a bit as my heater does turn on momentarily. Do you guys think I should be feeding anything extra for the sps? All I feed right now is mysis, sparinly mind you, and I spot feed my LPS once a week with mysis. |
#3
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![]() I've never fed my SPS, feeding the fish is enough. Drop the temp slightly, good size water change, keep any filter media really clean or remove it. How much rock have you got in the tank? Maybe post a FTS if you've got one.
Also, how long is the light on?
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Brad |
#4
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![]() Good points Brad
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#5
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![]() Care to explain how this happens ?
I understand corals can excrete their zoox when under stress, but how do they end up with too much ? |
#6
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![]() Quote:
Nutrients are made available through too much feeding, lack of dilution, excessive spots for binding it (detritus within the rock, deep stagnating sand, etc). Nutrients then are hard to measure as they're aren't freely available in the water column, but leach from the various sources to feed the zoox. Too long of a light cycle and higher temps can then amplify their uptake and growth. I've always found that the best way to tell you have too much zoox is the amount of fluorescing the corals give off under actinics. You'll notice a lot of glowing green from the browner corals, which is something that typically a fully blue piece of SPS won't give off. In my tank for example, the only corals that "glow" under the actinics are the ones that are naturally green. Not an absolute rule, but a pattern I've observed over the years. To keep the colors I have now, I've minimized the rock in the tank to promote detritus removal, I keep a very shallow sand bed, temps below 80 (but above 76 to promote growth), large and frequent water changes and a nutrient export system (zeovit). I also keep my lights on full for no more than 7 hours. Unfortunately there isn't usually a single thing that you can change, but more of a synergistic combo of all these things to bring out the colors.
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Brad |
#7
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![]() Hey guys,
I'll get some shots of the tank tonight. As for the lighting, they turn on and begin to ramp up at 10:30am. They are brightest at 5:00 then ramp down and are lights out at 11:00pm. I'll get the exact run points when I get home from work. As for the live rock, I've got 20lbs in there with ~2lbs of sand. |
#8
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![]() What kind of HOB skimmer is it?... There is really one that is worth spending money on IMHO.....my guess would be nutrients
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#9
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![]() It's an eshoppes skimmer rated for a 75 gal tank. I'd have to get the model number when I get home. Makes some awesome skimmate though.
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#10
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![]() Mmmmmm... doesn't strike me as nutrients. I know it was asked before and I might have missed the answer but how long are the lights on?
Brown doesn't just mean nutrients (My nitrates are at 10 ppm and I've got great colour). It can also mean stress (think of having extra zooxanthellae as stocking up on fat for a disaster). This could mean: -Not enough light -Not enough flow -High temperatures or temperature fluctuation -parameter fluctuations (in particular salinity and KH) - Or they're simply just not in the right spot. Have you tried moving them to a different location? |