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#11
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![]() @Greg The sink is too small for that. But, I might be able to mount brackets on the heatsink to screw into those holes. Bar stock would work. Attach the bar stock to the corners of the heat sink, drill holes in the bar stock, and put the splash guard screws through the splash guard and the holes in the bar stock.
I think you coming over to look would make us an "unofficial team" in the nano contest. No teams! ![]() |
#12
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![]() Quote:
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#13
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![]() Quote:
![]() Good thing I don't live down the street .... I think you're on the right track with some non-permanent mounting Keep brainstorming .. you'll come up with something |
#14
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![]() I did a nano a while back
![]() Once you get all the guts out of the unit, there will be remaining mounting holes in the plastic. From there just drill holes in the heatsync that lineup, screw it down and your done ![]() |
#15
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![]() Four washers and bolts/nuts showing on the top sides doesn't stand out. I was super surprised.
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#16
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![]() Since you are using the existing splash guard for the leds, perhaps you can utilize it to mount to rather than the external cover.
Id expect a decent amount of heat on that sink. Im running 16 boards at 65% on the same size sink and with a 25cfm fan I sit at 87f.
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Ross 9 Gallon Nano, Modular LED Lights 14 Gallon BioCube w/ Rebel LED Lights 67 Gallon Mixed Reef, Modular LED Lights Send in the Clowns - Clown Fish Breeding 5 Gallon Fry Hatchery and 15 Gallon Clown Grow Out Tank Last edited by Ross; 09-08-2012 at 03:05 AM. |
#17
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![]() I did Claymax's led retro fit and all we did was to first gut the hood of all the PC crap set in the heatsink and put the splash gaurd back on. Use the original hole for power & that was that.
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Feed the bear goodies, make a new friend, don't feed the bear............... 8' - 165gal Reef DIY LED's Build 2012 Nano Contest Winner Febuary 2013 POTM Winner 300 gal + 60 gal Complete DIY Build |
#18
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![]() I know what I'm going to do.
![]() I'm going to use Automotive JB Weld, bar stock aluminum, and screws. ![]() If you look above and below the heatsink in the photo, you'll see holes for a total of six screws: two top left, one top right, two bottom left, and one bottom right. I'm going to attach four pieces of bar stock aluminum to the heat sink using JB Weld. I'm going to drill holes in the bar stock that align with the screw holes. Then I'm going to use screws to mount it to the holes. I really don't want to drill the heatsink, as that will affect the placement of additional LEDs in the future (and I'm not so good with a drill). I'm waiting for more stuff from Martin, so the LEDs aren't done yet. I wonder how many orders it takes to get everything one requires? I keep finding more things that I need/forgot. I'm sure three will be the charm. ![]() Will any hardware store carry the bar stock? What is it normally used for (so I know what department to find it in)? Edit: in tearing the hood apart I sure learned one thing . . . JBJ's quality control and manufacturing standards are abysmal! Last edited by Enigma; 09-09-2012 at 12:57 AM. |
#19
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![]() I would not trust JB weld. Drill the heatsink. Not even sure I'd trust the plastic screw inserts long term. Don't know how much your heatsink with LEDs weighs, but the extra security of a few good quality scews through the hood & secured with nuts would be my choice. Last thing you need is to come home to your LEDs with heatsink submerged in the display. Paint the protruding hardware black & it will hardly be noticed.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#20
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![]() Thanks, Mike.
I checked with a buddy who is a journeyman auto body technician. He's confident that the JB Weld should hold no problem. The heatsink isn't very heavy. So, I'm going to try out my plan as it is. In the event of a failure, I'll put screws through the lid. If I need to do that, I'm going to make another modification to the lid as well (cut a hole in it for a 120mm cooling fan). And, in the event of a failure, I'll be sure to document it online: so no one else attempts it. ![]() |