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  #11  
Old 09-08-2012, 02:35 AM
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@Greg The sink is too small for that. But, I might be able to mount brackets on the heatsink to screw into those holes. Bar stock would work. Attach the bar stock to the corners of the heat sink, drill holes in the bar stock, and put the splash guard screws through the splash guard and the holes in the bar stock.

I think you coming over to look would make us an "unofficial team" in the nano contest. No teams!
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  #12  
Old 09-08-2012, 02:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattjoly85 View Post
High heat job weld would work. I would suggest though if u can get four holes drilled into your heat sink to mount in to ur hood. That would do best.
I had a similar problem with my 29 biocube.
A 2 dollar drill bit with screws. its a lot easier to change then a permanent thing.
Just my two cents.
As I took my led out and fitted it to a different tank.
How did you pretty up the top of the hood where you drilled the holes? I just don't want it to look ugly.
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  #13  
Old 09-08-2012, 02:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enigma View Post
I think you coming over to look would make us an "unofficial team" in the nano contest. No teams!
Didn't realise you were entering this one
Good thing I don't live down the street ....

I think you're on the right track with some non-permanent mounting
Keep brainstorming .. you'll come up with something
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  #14  
Old 09-08-2012, 02:51 AM
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I did a nano a while back

Once you get all the guts out of the unit, there will be remaining mounting holes in the plastic. From there just drill holes in the heatsync that lineup, screw it down and your done
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  #15  
Old 09-08-2012, 02:53 AM
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Four washers and bolts/nuts showing on the top sides doesn't stand out. I was super surprised.
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  #16  
Old 09-08-2012, 02:54 AM
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Since you are using the existing splash guard for the leds, perhaps you can utilize it to mount to rather than the external cover.

Id expect a decent amount of heat on that sink. Im running 16 boards at 65% on the same size sink and with a 25cfm fan I sit at 87f.
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Last edited by Ross; 09-08-2012 at 03:05 AM.
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  #17  
Old 09-08-2012, 03:05 AM
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I did Claymax's led retro fit and all we did was to first gut the hood of all the PC crap set in the heatsink and put the splash gaurd back on. Use the original hole for power & that was that.
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  #18  
Old 09-09-2012, 12:53 AM
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I know what I'm going to do.

I'm going to use Automotive JB Weld, bar stock aluminum, and screws.



If you look above and below the heatsink in the photo, you'll see holes for a total of six screws: two top left, one top right, two bottom left, and one bottom right.

I'm going to attach four pieces of bar stock aluminum to the heat sink using JB Weld. I'm going to drill holes in the bar stock that align with the screw holes. Then I'm going to use screws to mount it to the holes.

I really don't want to drill the heatsink, as that will affect the placement of additional LEDs in the future (and I'm not so good with a drill).

I'm waiting for more stuff from Martin, so the LEDs aren't done yet. I wonder how many orders it takes to get everything one requires? I keep finding more things that I need/forgot. I'm sure three will be the charm.

Will any hardware store carry the bar stock? What is it normally used for (so I know what department to find it in)?

Edit: in tearing the hood apart I sure learned one thing . . . JBJ's quality control and manufacturing standards are abysmal!

Last edited by Enigma; 09-09-2012 at 12:57 AM.
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  #19  
Old 09-09-2012, 01:59 AM
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I would not trust JB weld. Drill the heatsink. Not even sure I'd trust the plastic screw inserts long term. Don't know how much your heatsink with LEDs weighs, but the extra security of a few good quality scews through the hood & secured with nuts would be my choice. Last thing you need is to come home to your LEDs with heatsink submerged in the display. Paint the protruding hardware black & it will hardly be noticed.
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  #20  
Old 09-10-2012, 09:35 PM
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Thanks, Mike.

I checked with a buddy who is a journeyman auto body technician. He's confident that the JB Weld should hold no problem.

The heatsink isn't very heavy. So, I'm going to try out my plan as it is. In the event of a failure, I'll put screws through the lid. If I need to do that, I'm going to make another modification to the lid as well (cut a hole in it for a 120mm cooling fan). And, in the event of a failure, I'll be sure to document it online: so no one else attempts it.
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