Ca/Alk/Mag Mess . . . How to fix?

[Enigma]

Originally Posted by Aquattro

How? Clean water?

Typical water isn't going to have levels much higher than you have now, and you can then fine tune.

It is a new bag of salt. That makes me a bit nervous, as it could be quite different from the previous bucket.

Originally Posted by Lampshade

Before you do anything, is coral OK? i recently nuked my tank because my alk test said 6dkh and calcium said 420. Be VERY careful with your tests, i took an API and a salifert beside each other with one saying 6-7dkh, the other 17dkh.

Basically what i'm saying is before you do ANY corrective actions, first make sure you actually need the correction, and if you do, get a second opinion. I lost $1500 worth of SPS because i cheaped out on a test kit then trusted it, don't do the same :P.

My LPS look wonderful. My SPS aren't perfect, but okay. A couple are a little browned, but growing. I can't tell by looking at anything that the calcium is so out.

It is the API test kit that is being used for Alk. I have the Seachem test for Alk, but I haven't used it yet. I will test side-by-side tomorrow, before I do anything.

[Aquattro]

Originally Posted by Enigma

It is a new bag of salt. That makes me a bit nervous, as it could be quite different from the previous bucket.

Honestly, it's just salt. As long as it's the same brand as what you've been using, you're good. Mix it up for an hour, if it mixes clear, that's my sign that salt is good.
If you're still concerned, do a quick alk test. You don't need to knead the bag, or flip it, or mix for 24 hours. Mix it in RO, let it go clear and hit a close temp to what you need, and change water. It's just a water change.

[gregzz4]

Although I agree with most of everything said, I find that my salt does not mix to the proper Sg in an hour or so
I find it takes overnight for the Sg to stabilize, but that could be just me

It's also been pointed out to me that my testing of Ca over 500 from a bucket is not right, and I agree it was way too hi, which is why I started the thread I did

I tried my best to prove it wrong, but it came out that hi after multiple tests

I would like to think that the bucket I was just finishing, and the Elos test kit I was using at the time, were not getting along ..

But, I still get readings of 460 or higher with a brand new bucket of IO and a brand new Elos kit

[gregzz4]

Doing a 50% WC will not harm anything, as long as the new water is good

[Aquattro]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

Although I agree with most of everything said, I find that my salt does not mix to the proper Sg in an hour or so
I find it takes overnight for the Sg to stabilize, but that could be just me

Ya, gonna have to go with "it's just you". I mix mine up an hour ahead of time and it's fine. Once the salt is dissolved to the point that the water is clear, it isn't going to get more dissolved. I do have a large pump mixing it, but I do 50g at a time. In emergencies, I've mixed 5g buckets of new water in 10 minutes. While there's nothing at all wrong waiting 24 hours, it just isn't necessary.

[gregzz4]

Originally Posted by Aquattro

Ya, gonna have to go with "it's just you

Probably has something to do with a maxijet 600 in a 20g
I'd love to get NSW ready in an hour or 2, but I've found refractometer readings change as the day/night goes on, so I just wait 'till the next day

Back to Shelley's original question, shall we ???

[Enigma]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

Back to Shelley's original question, shall we ???

I'm enjoying the banter. Don't stop on my account.

Seachem Reef Status Carbonate test shows that total alkalinity is 3.2 meq/L (9 dKh).

This test confuses me. I assume that total alkalinity is what the API test tests for. But, there is a second part to this Seachem test: which tests for borate alkalinity. Subtract the borate alkalinity from the total alkalinity to get the carbonate alkalinity.

But, since the API test is so simple a trained monkey could do it, I assume it is total Alk.

[reefwars]

Originally Posted by Enigma

My LPS look wonderful. My SPS aren't perfect, but okay. A couple are a little browned, but growing. I can't tell by looking at anything that the calcium is so out.
.

sounds like a typical mixed reef to me, lps doing fine and sps could be doing better:P

i

[Enigma]

Originally Posted by reefwars

sounds like a typical mixed reef to me, lps doing fine and sps could be doing better:P

i

That sums it up nicely.

The only thing I think when I look at the system is that nutrients are a bit too high, and lighting is a touch to low. Those are the two things that look "off" based on how things are doing.

[reefwars]

Originally Posted by Enigma

That sums it up nicely.

The only thing I think when I look at the system is that nutrients are a bit too high, and lighting is a touch to low. Those are the two things that look "off" based on how things are doing.

what do you classify as high nutrients, i think many coral growers will tell you some nutrients are good.


its the sudden changes that messes with your tank, i could bomb all the food i want into my tank if i train my tank to do so over time,if i do it over night its going to have a negative affect.

you have to know when a problem arises whether or not its right to act immediately or play it with patience....this is something you just learn after a while....i think your scenario now is the patience one.


i would do as mentioned and start with a heavy water change to balance things out a bit.

test your water over the next month without adding or doing anything, its hard to add anyting if you dont know what your using right??

after that month determne whats low , whats been changing , and what is needed.

keep a visual eye on everything and do your reg water changes.

if you really want to get this right your gonna have to write it down and write there affects down.

since your not in any kind of red zone you can afford to experiment slowly with a few things.

keep attacking phosphates and nitrates in a mixed reef are tolerable