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#1
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![]() My zoas are doing ....mediocre. I've got a colony closed up
-could be irritated by spagetti worms -I've also seen 2 sundial snails that I've pulled out and have not seen any more. Using a webcam throughout the night on time lapse to look for more pests. Bought a butterfly fish to eat pests. Has not munched on corals yet! Params: Salinity @ 1.026 Ca 440 DKH 9.8 Mg 1600 (falling back into line from accidental OD) Nitrate/ite and phosphates undetectable For most tests I use Hanna calorimeter I have algae in the refugium, running a phosphate reactor and an oversized skimmer for my 75g display (25g sump) Should I disconnect the phosphate reactor and run the skimmer intermittently on a timer? I understand zoas/palys need a trace of PO4 and nitrates. Tank is lightly stocked. SPS are coloring nicely, most LPS look good but my orange hammer could look better.Torches, Gonipora and photosynthetic gorg look good too. |
#2
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![]() Quote:
trust me you want no phosphates with zoas and palys, this has been my experience anyways , for the few that prob do like phosphates the majority dont. nitrates now i find different , they like a steady amount so no up and down all the time, but not too much either. what you use for nitrates prob depends on what other corals you have , in a zoa only tank i wouldnt mind 20 or under. with other corals maybe 5 or less. feed your zoas and palys...they will grow fast if theres always food available ![]() ![]()
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#3
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![]() for the sundials you should be able to take the zoas out and dip them in coral rx to get the snails off , when dipping be sure to use a pump or baster to blow between the polyps , before putting them back in your tank inspect them under a bright light to see if there any clingers.
sundials arnt to bad prob the easiest of the zoa pests to get rid of ![]()
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#4
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Mike 36 Gallon Saltwater http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72283 90 Gallon Slow Build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82824 |
#5
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![]() the list is endless but im heavy on the gfo and vitamin c dose. pacifica plankton(no rinse) PE mysis(no rinse) nls reef micro feeder fauna marin ultra clam kent zoo-plankton i also feed some meatier foods to the anemone and elegance like krill. theres also a few other little things keeping it all together lol :P
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#6
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![]() +1 on the vitamin c dosing for zoas.
I had tons of spaghetti worms due to my feeding and their arms do irritate znp but my filefish took care of that issue. ![]() Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2 |
#7
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![]() I havent seen any more sundials, but keeping the webcam on to record @ night (1 frame every 15 sec). Did spot colinista snails. Some heavy infestation of spaghetti worms in that spot.. I think it may be an area that collects detritus.
I've been dosing vitamin C for a while, but not feeding much other than whats left over from feeding the fish. I have a product similar to reef chili. I guess I have to feed more to get my nitrates to a detectable level? |
#8
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![]() Vitamin C for zoas??? That's a new one for me! I have some BA vit C I had chalked up to snake oil... you give me new hope
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Link to my Tank Upgrade Thread Dan Leus, Marine Biologist 20+ Years Marine Aquarium Experience Save the Reef, Buy a Frag! |
#9
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![]() Quote:
absolutely , if you have undetectable levels , then whats the harm in adding extra food right??
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#10
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![]() Quote:
so far so good for me, but i wasnt having issues before i started.
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