Home from vacation . . . Could use a little advice.

[HaZRaTTy]

Sounds like ich, maybe when the fish has it the growth grows on their fins until it completes its cycle i think its like 1-1.5 months then it falls off into the sand bed and releases more into the water column. I believe this is how it is spread from fish to fish.

If it is ich however it could be brought on due to stress, and outbreak and changing water quality in your tank.

Just my 2 cents. There are way more people with more experience with me on this site though.

If it is Ich it wouldn't have came in on an invert as If I remember correctly they cannot host/carry it.

Or........... I can be completely wrong - A Picture would definetly help alot.


Yes black spots (burn marks) are quite normal on clown fish.

[BlueWorldAquatic]

If it is a parasite, a freshwater dip would do wonders. Prepare similar temperature water.

Fish can handle up to 15 minutes in freshwater, watch for signs of stress, remove then if they start breathIng heavy or darting around.

Most tunes the parasite will release in fresh water

[Enigma]

I think it is too big to be Ich (though I've never seen that in person, before). I'm thinking it could be this: http://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/12...o#post_2076263

I did cut back on feedings before we left on vacation. I tested the water yesterday when we got back, and calcium was very low. Otherwise, everything else was good (ideal, in most cases).

What can I use to raise the pH of freshwater if I go ahead and try a dip? I have Reef Buffer and Reef Builder . . . Can I use the buffer for fresh?

[Enigma]

So, I took the approach of doing nothing beyond adding garlic and just watching. While whatever was on her fin is still there, it has shrunk considerably and is barely noticeable. She remains very active and social, so I'm optimistic that the situation is resolving itself.

[04V10]

Originally Posted by Enigma

So, I took the approach of doing nothing beyond adding garlic and just watching. While whatever was on her fin is still there, it has shrunk considerably and is barely noticeable. She remains very active and social, so I'm optimistic that the situation is resolving itself.

How are you getting rid of the Cyano? I've had a breakout ever since I did a tank move. The Cyano showed up around th 6th of August. It has been spreading, I've done 50% water changes, and cut back feeding. Sorry to jack your thread, just thought I'd enquire.

[Spyd]

What's your flow like in your tank? That can cause cyano. Also, old lighting can trigger it, etc. To remove, siphon as much out as possible, in increase the waterflow in that area, replace bulbs, lights out for 3 days or so, etc. etc. Lots of ways to prevent it but getting a good grip on what caused it is the main part.

[Enigma]

Originally Posted by Spyd

What's your flow like in your tank? That can cause cyano. Also, old lighting can trigger it, etc. To remove, siphon as much out as possible, in increase the waterflow in that area, replace bulbs, lights out for 3 days or so, etc. etc. Lots of ways to prevent it but getting a good grip on what caused it is the main part.

I've got two MP10s running at 40% in "lagoonal" mode, in a 40 Breeder. I can't go any higher than that, as my LPS and softies take too hard a beating. There is a lot of flow, and this is on an open spot in my sandbed directly in front of my hammer coral. My bulbs are two months old.

[reefwars]

Originally Posted by Spyd

What's your flow like in your tank? That can cause cyano. Also, old lighting can trigger it, etc. To remove, siphon as much out as possible, in increase the waterflow in that area, replace bulbs, lights out for 3 days or so, etc. etc. Lots of ways to prevent it but getting a good grip on what caused it is the main part.

higher flow is known to cause cyano where as we use to think higher flow helped rid it, alot of ulns sps tanks with crazy flow have the worst outbreaks:P


cyano can literally be caused by hundreds of things as its a bacteria and not an algae

[Enigma]

The Cyano isn't gone yet. I've been able to reduce it. I'm skimming harder, I've replaced my carbon, I've started straining thawed frozen food before adding it to my system, i'm dosing BIO-spira, and I'm manually removing it. I reduced my light cycle, but my SPS browned out.

I am going to pick up some Red Slime remover today and test that in a 10 gallon tank I have which only houses one coral: a coral that was removed from my display system as it wasn't thriving. That coral has some cyano on it. If the test goes well, I'll try it in my display system on Saturday.

[04V10]

Sounds interesting Enigma. I don't want to reduce my lighting either due to my clam, and my SPS.

As for my flow, I have increased it substantially to try and get rid of the problem. I've got an AC70 HOB that I converted into a refugium last week with some chaeto, live rock, and chemi-pure elite (wasn't running this before), I've got a koralia 240, and a hydor 180 for additional flow, plus my hob skimmer. I have also cleaned my rock with a turkey baster and sucked some of it up. My lighting is LED radions, so no bulb changes required at this time.
I've also cut back feeding.
I'm wondering if I should just wait it out as my params were good with regards to nitrates, however I did show a tad bit of phosphates (below the lowest number on the scale, but still visible color change during test). With chemipure elite and the chaeto in the system now, I'm wondering if it will tie up the remaining phosphates and eat up the food for the cyano..