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#1
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![]() most clownfishes can tolerate a freshwater dip between 30 to 90 seconds. Dechlorinate the freshwater first, and matching temperature. If you're hesitant, you can match the pH also. You can FW dip the fish once per day if you want. Most clownfishes get territorial in your tank and will readily attack your hands (and fish net). Good luck.
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#2
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![]() Sounds like ich, maybe when the fish has it the growth grows on their fins until it completes its cycle i think its like 1-1.5 months then it falls off into the sand bed and releases more into the water column. I believe this is how it is spread from fish to fish.
If it is ich however it could be brought on due to stress, and outbreak and changing water quality in your tank. Just my 2 cents. There are way more people with more experience with me on this site though. If it is Ich it wouldn't have came in on an invert as If I remember correctly they cannot host/carry it. Or........... I can be completely wrong - A Picture would definetly help alot. Yes black spots (burn marks) are quite normal on clown fish. |
#3
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![]() If it is a parasite, a freshwater dip would do wonders. Prepare similar temperature water.
Fish can handle up to 15 minutes in freshwater, watch for signs of stress, remove then if they start breathIng heavy or darting around. Most tunes the parasite will release in fresh water |
#4
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![]() I think it is too big to be Ich (though I've never seen that in person, before). I'm thinking it could be this: http://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/12...o#post_2076263
I did cut back on feedings before we left on vacation. I tested the water yesterday when we got back, and calcium was very low. Otherwise, everything else was good (ideal, in most cases). What can I use to raise the pH of freshwater if I go ahead and try a dip? I have Reef Buffer and Reef Builder . . . Can I use the buffer for fresh? |
#5
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![]() So, I took the approach of doing nothing beyond adding garlic and just watching. While whatever was on her fin is still there, it has shrunk considerably and is barely noticeable. She remains very active and social, so I'm optimistic that the situation is resolving itself.
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#6
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![]() Quote:
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#7
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![]() What's your flow like in your tank? That can cause cyano. Also, old lighting can trigger it, etc. To remove, siphon as much out as possible, in increase the waterflow in that area, replace bulbs, lights out for 3 days or so, etc. etc. Lots of ways to prevent it but getting a good grip on what caused it is the main part.
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#8
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![]() The Cyano isn't gone yet. I've been able to reduce it. I'm skimming harder, I've replaced my carbon, I've started straining thawed frozen food before adding it to my system, i'm dosing BIO-spira, and I'm manually removing it. I reduced my light cycle, but my SPS browned out.
I am going to pick up some Red Slime remover today and test that in a 10 gallon tank I have which only houses one coral: a coral that was removed from my display system as it wasn't thriving. That coral has some cyano on it. If the test goes well, I'll try it in my display system on Saturday. |