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#1
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![]() Ya, drain your tank, it'll make netting so much easier
Put your rock in the mentioned brute containers while netting I'd be inclined to keep the skimmer on the DT as you want to keep that tank fed while fallow. Find another skimmer for the hypo if you feel it's needed, but a couple HOB filters will do just fine Get them into your sump now and seed the foam blocks. If you can't wait for them to seed from the DT water, get some startup stuff to help you over the ammonia cycle And the mentioned ammonia badge and ammo guard or similar is a must Lots of water changes the first couple weeks may be needed Treat the DT like you would if the fish were still in there; Water changes, testing, etc, and feed whatever corals there are that need it The only thing I see about your plan that would make me nervous is the chance of contmination from splashing DT water into the hypo section Lastly, I believe the preferred salinity for hypo is 1.009 A Hyposalinity Treatment Process Best of luck ![]() |
#2
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![]() Quote:
My fish are all in the sump now, fully freaking out. I didn't realize that my bengali's were breeding again and got an unfortunate surprise when the male expelled all the eggs in to the net. Poor guys. They're butterfly fish food now. I'm going to let it run for the night so the skimmer can clear the murk in the tank, then start reducing salinity tomorrow. I'm not worried about splash back, my sump is really deep, and the baffles from one chamber to the next are offset by only half an each between each chamber, so no splashing ever happens in there. Thanks for the responses. I'm glad I did it this way. The other option was removing all the coral and hypo treating the display tank, but after taking out all that rock (half of which is Marco rock) I realized just how much life is in there already. Some of my Marco rock is just as covered as my real live rock. It would be a crying shame to nuke all that. |
#3
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![]() Alright, so all fish, including the leopard wrasse are in QT and the salinity is 1.010 (I'll drop it to 1.008 in the last week). pH is just over 8
The purple tang has more spots than ever, hopefully they'll fall off in the next 24 hours. The powder blue is back to only eating brine shrimp, so I've stocked up on both vitamin encapsulated brine and brine/spirulina. I'll keep a constant supply of all the different colours of algae sheets in there too. I've set up a filter sock so I can suck up any uneaten food and hopefully keep the water quality high. None of the other fish seem to care at all that they've been moved, everyone else is eating aggressively. The internet gives conflicting reports on how long I need to leave the DT fallow, some say 8 weeks, some say 6 weeks. I'm leaving town on the 8 week mark for a week so I don't want to put my fish back in the tank that day, only to leave town if there are problems. Will it still be effective if I put them back in at 7 weeks? That will give me a full week of observation with them in the DT. Also, how long should I leave them in hypo? I theoretically could leave the salinity at 1.010 for 5 weeks, drop to 1.008 for the last week and a half, then slowly start increasing to match the tank, but I don't know if keeping them at that level for that long is safe? |
#4
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![]() The plan is to keep them @ 1.009 for the period. Not 1.008, or 1.010
Read the link I posted as I feel it is the best way to go .... The timeline is also in the linked thread ... The DT MUST be fallow for at least 8 weeks, but 9 is preferred You MUST allow time for the MI to die out. Why would you rush one extra week, when you know it will die in a fallow tank ... ??? The biggest thing you need to do, to follow the hypo treatment, is to take another 4 weeks bringing your fish back to 1.025 You need to keep an eye on them and ensure there are no signs of MI ...... This is the hardest thing for all of us to do as we think it's gone ..... Why would you rush it now, when your DT is MI clean ??? Don't rush this last phase .... I know it's hard to do, but you NEED to wait just a bit longer .... ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#5
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![]() Call me ignorant, cocky or just plain crazy. I'm speaking from actual experience here and not something I think is true because I read it online. Garlic is IMO the best thing for ick. I lost a whole tank full of fish to ick around 8 years ago.At the time of the outbreak I tried the hyposalinity and fresh water dips blah blah blah, it just stressed the fish out and the ick got worse. So start restocking my tank right away and back comes the ick. Somebody suggested using garlic and so I thought i'd give it a try.I make my own food so of course I put alot of garlic in it. I also add a couple of drops when the food is defrosting. Anyways, to this day and up to a few months ago I add fish to my tank that are totally covered in ick. I usually get good deals on them if they're infecte with ick. The fish in my tank will start to get a few spots on them but it eventually goes away after a week or two. The said fish that I put in fully recovers. Now I dont recommend people put ick coated fish in their tanks i'm just trying to get the message out that in my experience garlic works great for ick. I've had most of my fish now since the big die off 8 years ago and they are all healthy and in my mind there is no ick in my tank due to the garlic overdosing. There's the debate that garlic is hard on the fishes liver but I see no problems. Sorry for the long post and I hope everything works out ok for your fish. Not trying to create a debate just letting you know of my experiences with ick and garlic use.
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#6
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![]() I've used hyposalinity several times on QT'ed fish and it works great, however, your display tank must remain fish free for @ 8 weeks to ensure the ich has cycled out. I had a bout in my display tank that I successfully erradicated with garlic, I didn't think it would work but there was no way I was tearing the tank apart to catch all the fish, I now add garlic to the food everyday.
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Crap happens, that's why they sell toilet paper in 48 roll packs! |
#7
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![]() Garlic is useless most of the time. You will always see ick come and go in your tank if you only control it with garlic...it will always be there, especially if you keep reintroducing it with new fish. The only way to get rid of ich for good is to treat. What work for you have failed many times for others.
Hyposalinity work very well but it must be done properly with a good refractometer and constantly be under 1.010. oh and the skimmer does not work in hyposalinity. It does oxygenate the water though, keeping the PH high enough. Best is good cured liverock and there is no ammonia problem usually. Quote:
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... |
#8
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![]() Yea ok Daniella i'm a liar. I said I was speaking from experience. Thats the only thing that has worked in my case and i'm pretty confident that it works. I never quoted anyones post and said that they are wrong and their methods do not work so I really dont appreciate you doing it to me. On another note in my predator tank I used tonnes of copper in that tank. And guess what. The 100lb plus of liverock that was in there is now in my reef tank and has been for a number of years. So there goes that theory of using copper "will make those rocks useless forever." There is'nt one rock in my tank that does'nt have a coral growing on it. But thats another topic. But hey what do I know? I'm just a newbie with 12 years of reefing experience with oh lets see, hmm zero crashes. But just the one tank full of fish that died from ick. But no I dont know what i'm talking about so maybe i'll keep my useless experiences to myself. Cheers chicky
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