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#1
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![]() Temp swings suck, but they happen, and most healthy corals should handle it. I went a long time one summer bouncing from 80 to 90 daily, and only lost one species of acro (8 frags of it). Everything else was fine, although perhaps a bit more brown..
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Brad |
#2
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![]() 24.5C 25.5C (78) here
http://www.wbuf.noaa.gov/tempfc.htm Heater is my controller and water tubing coil cooled with cold tap water is my chiller. I run a 1/4 inch OD tube from my RO/DI inlet to the sump, and back to the P-trap, with straight valve slightly open to the fast drip. There is a 15 feet tube coil in the sump acts as a heat exchanger/cooler. Back to the RO/DI waste line and in to the drain. water cost for a few short Summer month in Vancouver where it rains 9 month out of 12 is nothing compare to the cost of the controller and chiller and electricity to run the chiller. Cut water supply line to RO/DI and insert the 1/4" OD line in with straight line valve for flow control. ![]() . Run the tube line to you sump and make a coil that will act as a heat exchanger ![]() . Run the tube line back to the RO/DI waiste line and or back to the P trap ![]() . You summer chiller is on line ! If water will get below set your heater will kick in. Last edited by RuGlu6; 07-14-2012 at 04:54 AM. |
#3
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#4
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![]() Just an update on raising my temp to 79. Since then I've noticed increased growth on almost every piece i have. No change in color at all, but some pieces that appeared dormant for a year suddenly have grown to triple what they were.
So I'm changing my original answer to be 79F as the optimal temp ![]()
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Brad |
#5
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![]() Have you noticed any changes in any of your fish or inverts?
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#6
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![]() Nope, the only difference is an increase in coral growth. I might suggest that my skimmer fills up quicker, but that could be from other reasons.
__________________
Brad |