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#1
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![]() Maybe slow down on the fish additions, add no more than 2 every week or other week. Although you might have just got less than healthy fish; since lots are still fine, just leave it alone for now.
Refractometers, from what I've seen, all read increments on the scale, so unless you mean 1.020 opposed to 1.02, I'm not sure what you're reading. Stability is key, I'd aim for 1.026 and keep it there. Other than that, looks like a good start to a really nice setup. Right after you read this, go remove the brass immediately. It will leach copper into your tank, screwing you forever. I mean right now!! Brass bad! ![]()
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Brad |
#2
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![]() Oh, and the Apex is a great controller, you wouldn't be disappointed with it.
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Brad |
#3
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![]() That is a very nice set up.
Don't be too upset about a few losses. No one does everything perfectly the first time in this hobby and as Brad said you could have had unhealthy fish to begin with. Sometimes they look fine in the store but aren't eating well or have parasites, etc. I'm no expert or anything but it looks like you're off to a great start. Welcome to Canreef ![]() ETA: Cardinal fish are rather sensitive. Not sure if yours were captive bred or not but try to look for the CB if you are going to replace them. The CB ones tend to be a bit more hardy.
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Member of the 2012 180 Club Last edited by reefgirl189; 05-30-2012 at 03:54 PM. |
#4
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![]() You should test your water regularly but certainly a new tank and one with dying stock should be tested every day. Ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. The difference between 1.020 and 1.025 is huge and should be looked at first, likely your testing method is wrong... Refractometers usually have a focus ring so you can focus that white/black dividing line to razor sharpness so you can get an accurate measurement. YouTube should have instructions on how to read a refractometer.
Feeding twice a day sounds excessive and could lead to high ammonia, nitrate and nitrites in new tanks. Also feed a variety of foods for good fish health. Mysis, plankton, pellets, brine shrimp should be in rotation. Also make sure your refractometer is calibrated, I tested mine recently and it was out 0.003 points! Last edited by Snaz; 05-30-2012 at 04:01 PM. |
#5
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![]() A nice looking system.
Some of my immediate thoughts: 1. First don't worry too too much about the fish. While you may have rushed to add some, they may have been significantly stressed from shipment or poor collection practices and not going to live regardless. That being said, consider all the fish you want to add carefully as taking a poor choice out is no easy task. 2. Next time, only buy snails OR hermits......the hermits eventually grow and kill the snails and take their shells.....I only go with snails myself. 3. I would also consider taking offline or out of use what appears to be a black garbage can beside the sump....a food grade container is always recommended as others are know to leak contaminants into your system. 4. How do you plan on maintaining your calcium and alkalinity? I did not see a calcium reactor near the sump or any 2-part dosing supplies. Cheers.
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I'm out. ![]() |
#6
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![]() Thank you everyone for your comments and suggestions. I may have been a bit hasty because I did add all the fish at once. I will go and purchase some different types of fish food so that I will not be feeding them always the same stuff.
I didn't realize that using a normal black plastic garbage can for my water change water would be an issue. Where would a person find a food grade container of that size? I haven't purchased a calcium reactor yet because I didn't think I needed one until I started adding hard corals. Plus even though I have spread out the costs of this over several months… It still hurts the bank book. But like they say for all hobbies… They are expensive but enjoyable. Thank you Last edited by RPatsula; 05-30-2012 at 07:25 PM. Reason: more text |
#7
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![]() looks like this will be an awesome set up once underway! sorry about the losses, adding all the fish at once probably could have cause a spike, and more then likely the tank didnt have time to adjust to the bioload. like said above slow and steady is the way to go
![]() Good luck and Welcome Aboard
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I'm not 'fallow' you must be talking about my tank! |
#8
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![]() First, welcome to the hobby! Secondly...there are some garbage cans that you can use...the big grey Brute containers are recognized for being safe, and easy to get at home depot.
As far as a calcium reactor, I wouldn't start off that route...I would investigate some simple 2 part dosing....can be very cost effective and easier to manage IMO. Once you start getting that reef going, you will have to watch your calcium and alk usage and then decide if you want to dose or go the reactor route.
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#9
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![]() +1 for testing.
Sounds like you have an awesome set-up but you really need to regularly test for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates, phosphates, pH, and salinity (sg) It is very important to keep the salinity stable...I would pick up a new refractometer if you are not getting consistent readings. Have you calibrated it lately? +1 for only adding one fish every two weeks You want to feed a variety of foods but do not over-feed your tank either.
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There's only two people in the world that I trust. One of 'em's me,...the other's not you. |