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#1
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![]() you ideally want to run ro/di water. trust me it will help greatly and will cut your maintenance way back once the tank matures
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#2
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![]() I know I'm working on it I'm still a newb but thanks for the advice
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#3
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![]() Like mentioned lights out and GFO is the answer. I am sure some of the problem is if your vacuuming it out you may be disturbing it too much and releasing more algea spores into the water causing further outbreaks. Depending on the severity can you remove affected rocks, scrub them in your sink then put them in a 5 gallon pail with some old tank water and a small powerhead for a week?
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#4
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![]() Tap water = Bad water!!
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#5
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![]() Check your source water for nitrates and phosphates.
Have a look at your water tone (look through a zip lock in day light yellow=doc's) DOCs can skew your spectrum. Bulb Age?? Type?? Could be starting to slide. . . Hammer the Phosphate and nitrate remover. . . An AT LEAST TOP OFF WITH RO. If you get ro from a store (like i du cuz im lazy) then b sure to test it for phospates/nitrates. Some less the cool biz owners in the past have skimped on the RO and done RO/Tap cut at stores. Most likley cause all tanks are effected at same time it's Source water/hardware.
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|NAS- If it's not broke, don't fix it. |
#6
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![]() back before Vancouver opened it's super water filter plant I used to top off with tap water and I could see the existing algae bloom the next day.
Have long since gotten an RO so I don't know if that's still the case but I would def think it's an unsettled system with the tap water. |
#7
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![]() lets be honest to enjoy long-term success you have to have RO/DI....they should not sell a tank without them, particularly given their low price relative to everything else in our hobby.
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I'm out. ![]() |