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#1
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![]() it still is alive. just not too healthy.
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#2
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![]() I meant the big white skeleton, not the little greenish blob.
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Brad |
#3
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![]() Skeleton? I just thought it was a rock. I picked it up from the aquaruim that i got my live rock from
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#4
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![]() Selling dead coral skeletons as live rock is the worst sign of an LFS. Don't give these bozos any more of your businesses.
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#5
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![]() Hey buddy
![]() If it doesn't look better by tomorrow text me in the morn Could swing by when I'm coming through Edmonton Sunday and help you get a plan going ![]()
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#6
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![]() That tank looks extremely immature. Give it some time to age and buildup bacteria and micro organism populations. Once you've got some algae growing on the surfaces and little 'bugs' running around you'll be almost ready for some coral. My own recommendation is to wait 6 months before adding anything remotely difficult to keep and in my experience xenia and ricordia can be pretty sensitive. You may also want to seed your tank with a few pieces of matured live rock or sand from someone else's system. In addition to what equipment you're running also list your salinity and temperature please.
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"We shall dive down through black abysses... and in that lair of the Deep Ones we shall dwell amidst wonder and glory forever." - H.P. Lovecraft Old 120gal Tank Journal New 225gal Tank Journal May 2010 TOTM The 10th Annual Prince George Reef Tank Tour |
#7
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![]() looks to me like a lot of dry rock compared to live rock?.....if so, I would think that three weeks is too soon for two fish in tank with very little live rock.....slooooow down.....everything you add at this point is going to throw the tank out of balance....if you dont allow the tank to balance its self out between additions, it will be in a constant state of trying to catch up biologically to what you are adding, making the whole process an uphill battle....
get some water change water mixing and do a w/c, run some carbon somehow, look for some amquel or prime or prodibio "start"....the prodibio start would probably be the best route as it will both neutralize any ammonia and kick start the beneficial bacteria and help feed it
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#8
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![]() Yes, I think a big water change (don't use tap, you can get the "Great Value" distilled water at Walmart for cheap . . . In prepackaged jugs . . . Don't use the machine) is in order. A few big water changes are probably the best thing you can do for your tank right now. Mix it in a bucket (powerhead works well) to your tank's SG, bring it up to temp, siphon out tank water, and add the newly mixed saltwater. I'm sure you know is, but after some posts i've read on another forum . . . not everyone does.
The API test I have an issue with is the nitrate one. The ammonia and nitrite tests should be just fine for you right now. You may need to add some bacteria (I know Red Coral has some products to help a tank cycle), and maybe some Ammo Lock. You might like to stuff a bag of Purigen into your overflow (or some where else all of the water will pass through). I know you feel like crap right now, but don't worry. You'll get through this. We all have a lot to learn when we start out, and sometimes an answer to the challenges we face isn't easy or forthcoming. There will be livestock losses for one reason or another. That's a fact of reefing. |
#9
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![]() No need for a new ammonia test kit, even the cheap ones work fine for detecting ammonia. If that cloud is ammonia your nose will confirm Get your nose up near the surface and take a big whiff, if it smells nasty then you have a problem.
Any uneaten fish food pooled in a corner or in the filter? |
#10
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![]() Quote:
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