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Old 05-24-2012, 11:03 PM
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Default New things to try LOL

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Originally Posted by The Grizz View Post
The only other thing that bothers me about your durso Mike is the big valve you have at the top. When I built Adams ( oxymoron ) durso all it took was a very small hole drilled into the cap to get it perfect. I cant remember what size it was but it was super small, I started with a 1/16" drill bit and worked my way up until it was bang on.

What was the flow like thru the gate valve ? I like to have as much flow as my drain can handle more than anything.
These things are all interconnected, so does one have the flow set before drilling holes. I liked the adjustability of the valve on top for that reason, but if it maybe the issue then BYE BYE it goes.

What size pipe did you use for the durso? if you cant get it balanced I will send you a new Tee, elbow and cap. All you would have to do is drill the hole. I will see if I can get Adam to take a couple pics of his durso from the side.

I used 1 1/2" pipe and fittings. I will look and see if I have a cap to experiment with. That is one fitting I can actually find in Yellowknfe.

As for the syphon break, it is really strange that what you did there isnt working. A check valve would solve the problem but I am a little stumped.

I honestly think that the issue is that the bulkead is so low in the overflow, the siphon will not break until there is no water above that point. I will try lifting the elbow inside the overflow, but I am guessing that the siphon will still draw until the water drops below the bulkhead top enough to draw air thru the bulkhead.

Do worry about having all the water that passed through for sump going threw the skimmer. Most if not all systems are the same, not every drop of water goes threw the skimmer before it hits the DT again.
Do or don't worry ??

Last edited by ensquire; 05-24-2012 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 05-24-2012, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ensquire View Post
Do or don't worry ??
No sorry typo, DONT worry
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Old 05-25-2012, 12:50 AM
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No sorry typo, DONT worry
Thanks man
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Old 05-30-2012, 04:19 AM
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Default Fixit Scenario #1

Drain is now more adjustable after going with traditional durso drain pipe. I would guess that the valve I had on before was allowing excess air. I can raise and lower overflow levels using the gate valve.





7/64" was the magic number for this one, Greg.

Here is a quick video of the sump. Is this the usual flow or does it look like to much air still? It isn't that loud, just wondering if it looks like it's working properly.

http://youtu.be/LO8mq6HdnpE
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Old 05-30-2012, 04:28 AM
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Glad to here you got the Durso running a little better. It's hard to tell from the video how long the drain pipe goes into the sump but it looks to me as if the end of the pipe is angled a bit. What I have done with my drains is to keep them as straight down into the sump to within a few inches of the bottom & drill a bunch of 1/2" holes around the pipe that is under water. Doing this will help some of the air bubbles escape & decrease the turbulence of the water coming out of the drain.
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Old 05-30-2012, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Grizz View Post
Glad to here you got the Durso running a little better. It's hard to tell from the video how long the drain pipe goes into the sump but it looks to me as if the end of the pipe is angled a bit. What I have done with my drains is to keep them as straight down into the sump to within a few inches of the bottom & drill a bunch of 1/2" holes around the pipe that is under water. Doing this will help some of the air bubbles escape & decrease the turbulence of the water coming out of the drain.
I used flex, I can't run drain straight down. Will try it with a couple of 45's and see what I can accomplish.
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Old 06-11-2012, 06:39 PM
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Default Eurobrace

Hey I was following your thread and I have a question in regards to the drain and eurobrace.
Do you find that the eurobrace gets in the way when cleaning or adjusting the pipes?
I'm thinking of getting a tank which i will eurobrace but wasn't sure how that would pan out.


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