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#1
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![]() OK, you should be seeing results by now, tomorrow the cyano will be gone.
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Crap happens, that's why they sell toilet paper in 48 roll packs! |
#2
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![]() Well I really hope your cyano clears up.
I too have used chemi-clean... In fact it's in my glovebox. When cyano happens to one of my customers tanks, they want it gone now. Instead of saying itll be gone in 3-4 weeks with me doing some dedicated water changes and adjusting chemistry, perhaps adding a power head. I will sometimes just add chemi clean to get rid of it, all the while knowing the I will have to adjust the problem that was causing it in the first place in the future. However the customer is happy for the meantime and I can fix the issue after. Marlo, please keep up with the water changes. It will help in the long run. Chemi clean can sometimes be like a bandaid fix. Not really fixing the problem causing it. The only other thing that I can think of that could make a difference is that I have changed everyone of my 50 tanks off of nls foods as I find them to be really dirty. I am now feeding 95% hikari both frozen and pellets (marine a, marine s, as seaweed extreme) and have had significantly less brown algae on the glass, and less outbreaks of cyano. Water changes are your friend. |
#3
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![]() Quote:
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#4
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![]() You win.... Good luck with your cyano ... I know a couple Maint guys in edm if interested.
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#5
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![]() No need to have a fit just cuz I won't agree with you
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#6
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![]() Can you please explain: if cyano is feeding on neutrients and absorbing them. How is a water change going to help if none of those neutrients are in the water column
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#7
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![]() chemiclean. worked. cyano almost gone
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#8
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![]() Definitely not having a fit my friend... Just trying to help you out as you had asked a question on a public forum because you didn't know the solution to your problem... I gave you a suggestion, you didn't like it, and maybe I hit a nerve as you're super defensive on the topic of water changes. It's happened in threads prior to this one... It'll happen in threads after this one when you run into your next problem that maybe could be solved by some good old fashioned water changes...
Vast majority out there does water changes on their tank. I'm Just saying. Glad your cyano is gone... Drop me a line if you want some advice on how to fix it when you open your mind a little... |
#9
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![]() +1...... Obviously Marko knows something that 99% of everyone else in the hobby doesn't
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#10
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![]() cyano uses nitrogen fixation ->grows without nitrates and uses nitrogen gas in the air, but it still needs a source of phosphate.
large W/Cs did nothing to cyano for me extra GFO worked, but it took a long time and was a gradual change with less growing back each time it was removed (GFO also removes silicates which can contribute to cyano) Last edited by beefORchicken; 05-17-2012 at 11:52 PM. |