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#1
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![]() The photo editing was literally three clicks with a mouse. It is an auto-fix feature that analyzes the colours in the photo and then does some corrective magic.
Most programs include this auto-fix or auto-correct feature. Post editing is a must for reef shots. We bombard the subject with super violet rays to get the colours to pop and as a result our pictures are blue. Cameras are built to take pictures and not deal with atypical washed out blue coral under actinics. Last edited by Snaz; 05-12-2012 at 03:04 PM. |
#2
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![]() Turning off your pumps and let the water settle will cause less movement which well then allow you to shoot at lower ISO speeds resulting in better detail.
Tripod and shutter remote are a must. If no remote shutter then use the countdown feature so your hands are not touching camera when the shutter fires. |
#3
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![]() I would have to disagree with this statement...... all of my pictures that I post have no post editing at all and one of them just so happens to be POTM ATM..... I kinda feel the same as the OP..... the camera should be able to take an accurate representation of the coral with its settings and not need to be tweeked with a computer program
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#4
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![]() I think it depends on how blue your lights are and how far your camera's white balance will go. After you take a picture, your camera tries to guess the color of the lighting and remove that color cast. Incandescent are yellow. Flouresent lights are green. With really blue tank lighting the camera just wasn't designed to consider a light source that blue. As a result it only takes out some of the blue cast. I've found that Lightroom (a photo editing program) can't fully color correct a photo taken under just blue actinics. While it can do better than the camera, it is still limited.
Some ideas to experiment with if you can:
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#5
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#6
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![]() Quote:
Well with all the discussion, checked my instructions for the camera and yippie just went in altered my kelvin colour rating for my WB to 10,000k Didnt touch my iso, just went and tested to see what would happen. I see a nice difference. before ![]() After ![]() ![]() ![]() Still a little off but Now I think im heading in the right direction, and can fool around with the other settings. Hoping to maybe get some more input from others though, the more I can learn the better. And I still want to avoid editing if at all possible! (other then re-sizing in paint) |
#7
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![]() Click Click
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#8
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![]() It doesnt matter what camera or how much it costs. It won't perform properly unless you use it properly.
If you do use software for post, boost the contrast, brightness and slightly increase saturation. It'll make everything pop |
#9
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![]() Quote:
![]() This camera is new to me, bought it for myself for christmas and Haven't had a chance yet to take it out and test all the features like I did with my old SLR. Cant find the tripod... Will play around with some of the settings now on the same 2 coral and see what happens. My only regret.... Buying a bowfront. |