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#31
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![]() After going through numerous threads and articles on LED color combinations I’ve come to the conclusion that the capability to change would be advantageous. With that being the case, having to remove and re-solder the LED’s into the fixture would almost certainly be tedious enough to prevent it from happening for any type of experimentation.
The idea I came up with is to solder PCB 0.1mm pins to the stars and use jumpers to connect the strings together. I’ve ordered a few of these from e-bay and await their arrival as I complete the remainder of the build. ![]() ![]() Initially the pins will need to be soldered but once that is completed I would have a star that can be connected/disconnected with relative ease, or at least I hope so. ![]() ![]()
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Sunil One day I'll be finished......then What? |
#32
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![]() The problem with this design as I see it is if the fixture takes a bump from either side it will go for a swim. An extra down edge on the outside of the tank on each end would solve this.
I know you are going for a different design but I just wanted to point it out for others looking to build something similar. |
#33
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![]() Quote:
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Sunil One day I'll be finished......then What? |
#34
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![]() impressive!
excellent workmanship! looks great, such a clean build. wish i had the ability to build that.
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#35
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![]() Thank You....glad to have you aboard.
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Sunil One day I'll be finished......then What? |
#36
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![]() Does anyone have any experience with these drivers?.....I'm thinking of giving them a try.
http://a-starlighting.com/products_show.asp?c_id=104 ![]()
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Sunil One day I'll be finished......then What? |
#37
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![]() How's the wood holding up? Mdf is probably the worse type to use near any water as it absorbs moisture and expand. Great looking top btw
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