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#1
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![]() Quote:
Colder instrument---> Salt water cooled---> Density drops---> Incorrect reading. That being said everything I have read says the amount is almost negligible, where's Kien when you need a science experiment done!! |
#2
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![]() Yeah density obviously decreases with temperature but at a rate of less than one tenth of a percent per 10 degrees C. So if you're close it really won't make a difference. Not to say you should use boiling or close to freezing temp water to calibrate but using say 21C water to calibrate for a tank running at 24C really won't make a detectable difference.
To give an idea, 4C RO water from my fridge reads about 0.5ppt on my refractometer, just barely over the zero line. And that's a pretty significant temperature difference. Last edited by sphelps; 05-11-2012 at 05:33 PM. |
#3
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![]() I'm not near my tank, anyway you can do the same with salt water and see if that changes the reading a measurable amount?
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#4
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![]() I'll put the calibration fluid in the fridge and post later
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#5
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![]() If you have a seawater refractometer then calibration with water should provide a good reading at normal salt water ranges. However, it is still recommended that one use calibration fluid.
If you have a salt water refractometer (NaCl) which is most common in the hobby, there will be an error at normal salt water ranges if calibrated with water. Randy Holmes-Farley on Refractometers and Salinity |
#6
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May I ask how much error you would expect and if you've actually tried it yourself? |
#7
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Without checking on the math of it, I believe the error is .0017 or thereabouts but I don't remember low or high just off hand. The answer is in that article. There is NO WAY that an accurate refractometer that measures NaCl in water like the standard refractometer does, can read accurately throughout the scale measuring sea water with the many different salts involved as the refractive index is affected. If your NaCl refractometer calibrated with water is reading correctly at normal salt aquaria ranges, then it is a poor quality that has errors that just happen to read correctly at that range for some reason but it is scientifically not possible for a quality refractometer to do so. I don't use a refractometer because I started over 18 years ago when everyone around here used either floating hydrometers or SeaTest swing arms. As I already had a complete set of hydrometers from when I worked in a lab, that was my first choice, but I switched to using swing arms when I broke the floater that checked the range of the aquaria. I purchased a new Fisher Scientific certified calibrated floating hydrometer and a new columnar cylinder for measuring the s.g. in (I broke both hydrometer and cylinder at the same time). I also bought two SeaTest swing arms to use for everyday use so I wouldn't break another glass floater. I used the certified hydrometer to check the swing arms, and one read slightly high and the other was slightly low. With this older style you could remove the swing arm and so I shaved a touch off the weight in the arm of the high reader to make it read accurate at 1.026, and shaved a touch off the float material of the arm to allow the reading to rise to 1.026. Now, I'm still using the swing arms, rinsing well after each use, soaking overnight in white vinegar once a week, and check once or twice a year against the certified, and it still reads accurately. |
#8
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![]() 1.026 Calibration fluid reads 1.027 at 4 degrees C
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