Opinions appreciated: check valve vs anti-siphon holes in overflow returns

[gregzz4]

Wow, I should have checked in yesterday

Originally Posted by paddyob

How do you know how long this person has been in fish keeping.

I guess I won't offer advice.

All I meant was ensquire gave no reference as to how long the loc-line had been in use.
My reply wasn't meant to imply anything else.

[gregzz4]

I'd like to thank Everyone for their input. I never imagined I'd get this much feedback.

With the limited # of responses to using a check valve, and the thoughts on it fouling etc, that option is off the table.

I am attempting to get some surface flow from the loc-lines. Because of the way I currently have them, there is the chance they can be bumped quite low below the surface, allowing way too much volume to back siphon. I will have to re-think the routing.
This is how they sit and now you see why I originally posted these questions.



I agree whole-heartedly with the idea of laying out the lines so no valve or anti-siphon holes are required.
I'll have to attempt to shorten the lines and it looks like I'll lose the surface flow I was looking for.

[gregzz4]

I'm going to try this. On the right of the overflow box is a 'Y'
It and the nozzle pointing forward are twisted to their max and cannot point down any farther. This nozzle will be the siphon break
The eggcrate cover won't fit if they change position so it'll alert me if I bump it during maintenance or WHY
Now I can still have the surface flow I was looking for
Hopefully this will eliminate dead spots on the surface corners

[Myka]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

I'm going to try this. On the right of the overflow box is a 'Y'
It and the nozzle pointing forward are twisted to their max and cannot point down any farther. This nozzle will be the siphon break
The eggcrate cover won't fit if they change position so it'll alert me if I bump it during maintenance or WHY
Now I can still have the surface flow I was looking for
Hopefully this will eliminate dead spots on the surface corners

I didn't mind your first idea, but this looks good to me too. IME, the loc-lines are pretty stiff so you really have to give them a good knocking to move them. You can always do test runs with the lines lower to see if there is room in the sump. If your sump can handle the flow with the loc-lines at their lowest point then you're covered anyway.

[gregzz4]

Originally Posted by Myka

I didn't mind your first idea, but this looks good to me too. IME, the loc-lines are pretty stiff so you really have to give them a good knocking to move them. You can always do test runs with the lines lower to see if there is room in the sump. If your sump can handle the flow with the loc-lines at their lowest point then you're covered anyway.

Thanks, glad to hear that.
IME the L-L will stiffen over time but is quite easy to move right now as it's new.
I had tested the first setup, hence the concern . This version will have to wait a bit for a test as I'm hoping the next time I fill the system it will be with RO water.

[outacontrol]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

With the limited # of responses to using a check valve, and the thoughts on it fouling etc, that option is off the table.

Have you looked at the George Fisher check vavle http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...wiss-made.html

They don't have traditional seals to dry out and foul up, and they come apart very easily to clean and maintain.
I have one and love it! I have been using it for about 7 months now.

[gregzz4]

Originally Posted by outacontrol

Have you looked at the George Fisher check vavle

Thank you. I saw these awhile back but don't think one will work with my system as the only accessible section of plumbing I could unstall it in is a horizontal run. I would be concerned the weight wouldn't function correctly that way.

[outacontrol]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

Thank you. I saw these awhile back but don't think one will work with my system as the only accessible section of plumbing I could unstall it in is a horizontal run. I would be concerned the weight wouldn't function correctly that way.

The design of them will function best when installed in a vertical pipe, but they should also work on the horizontal aswell. The weight of the stopper is part of the action but alot of the action comes from the water pressure and the valve design. There is a little chamber that deverts some of the back flowing water above the weight, therefore pushing it down.

[tim the toolman]

How many watts of heater r u runnin there? Looks like a lot lol

[gregzz4]

Originally Posted by tim the toolman

How many watts of heater r u runnin there? Looks like a lot lol

Hehe, I get that from time to time. It's just redundancy. I had a pair of 250s from my old 125g, but prefer more heaters vs high wattage ones. If a single 200 up and dies, the other 2 can still keep up. If a 250 were to go, a single one would have a hard time.

The 3 x 200W are on the RKE. The 2 x 250W are set a little lower on the Ranco in case either;
-A 200W trips the GFCI
-The RKE craps out in some way