Ich and a Yellow Coris Wrasse.......... - Page 2

daniella3d · #11 03-22-2012, 08:37 PM

Good luck

Are you treating with hyposalinity?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reefie

I'm going to go 73 Days before introducing the fish back to the DT. I recall the lifespan of Ich is 72 Days.

I was actually only going 10 Weeks, I'm taking the extra 3 days because I will have that weekend off and can acclimate the fish in slowly. I'm going to take a couple weeks to put the fish in so I don't overload the bio-load too quickly.

Reefie · #12 03-22-2012, 08:44 PM

In the QT, I'm just treating with Paraguard which I've had success so far with.

Hypo was also an option, which I might do just as a safety precaution after I do 2 Weeks of Paraguard with 2 Weeks of monitoring afterwards.

I think I will go with the Hypo for 2 Weeks after the Paraguard with 2 Weeks of monitoring.

Bblinks · #13 03-22-2012, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reefie

I'm going to go 73 Days before introducing the fish back to the DT. I recall the lifespan of Ich is 72 Days.

I was actually only going 10 Weeks, I'm taking the extra 3 days because I will have that weekend off and can acclimate the fish in slowly. I'm going to take a couple weeks to put the fish in so I don't overload the bio-load too quickly.

LIES!!! I'll believe it when I see it.

Reefie · #14 03-22-2012, 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bblinks

LIES!!! I'll believe it when I see it.

The Temptation is going to be HUGE, but I can't afford not to follow through with the whole process.

Remember, I have a $450 Purple Tang right now. With the Flame and Labouti Wrasses coming, I can't afford to blow another $1,000 on fish.

I should've done this from the start, but you know me. Haha!

Any and ALL fish are going into the QT until the DT is ready for fish again.

The worst case scenario, you might be fish-sitting for me in June. I'll move the QT with everything over to your place. Just make sure that MY fish STAY as MY fish and they don't end up in your tank. Haha!

daniella3d · #15 03-23-2012, 12:36 AM

I think if you are treating for ich with Paraguard, then you must go for at least 3 weeks, 4 weeks is more like it due to the life cycle of ich.

I always treat with Paraguard for 4 weeks and never had any problem with fish or their appetite. Since you started with Paraguard, it is probably best to continue with it and not do hypo.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reefie

In the QT, I'm just treating with Paraguard which I've had success so far with.

Hypo was also an option, which I might do just as a safety precaution after I do 2 Weeks of Paraguard with 2 Weeks of monitoring afterwards.

I think I will go with the Hypo for 2 Weeks after the Paraguard with 2 Weeks of monitoring.

The Guy · #16 03-23-2012, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daniella3d

I think if you are treating for ich with Paraguard, then you must go for at least 3 weeks, 4 weeks is more like it due to the life cycle of ich.

I always treat with Paraguard for 4 weeks and never had any problem with fish or their appetite. Since you started with Paraguard, it is probably best to continue with it and not do hypo.

Have you thought about using a UV Sterilizer in your tank? Seems to work well for these problems apparently.

Reefie · #17 03-23-2012, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clown lover

Have you thought about using a UV Sterilizer in your tank? Seems to work well for these problems apparently.

It didn't do much for me, I'm running the Coralife Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer already. Believe me, I pretty much tried everything. Ich hates me. Haha!

The Guy · #18 03-23-2012, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reefie

It didn't do much for me, I'm running the Coralife Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer already. Believe me, I pretty much tried everything. Ich hates me. Haha!

I was told that if you increase the dwell time through the sterlizer it will look after ich, I hope that's true

Reefie · #19 03-23-2012, 08:02 AM

No such luck with that for me either. I've slowed the flow down through the UV by running it through my chiller first, and even with a gate valve. No difference for me, sadly to say.

The only good thing is that I can leave my tank fallow for as long as I want to now. 😊

daniella3d · #20 03-23-2012, 12:09 PM

How strong is that UV? you need at least 25 watt to really make an impression on parasites and a very slow flow in the UV, but with a large tank not all the water and parasites are going to go through the UV and those parasites on the fish are going to fall on the liverock as well as in the sand.

It is only in the free floating stage that they are susceptible to a UV and unfortunatly not all the larvaes are going to go through the UV. A lot of them are going to find a fish and attach before they get into a UV.

I had one too with my discus and always has a fluke problem (resistant to prazi) but the UV did not do much so I sold it. It was a large pond UV of 25 watts with a huge lamp and it did not work even with very slow flow.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reefie

No such luck with that for me either. I've slowed the flow down through the UV by running it through my chiller first, and even with a gate valve. No difference for me, sadly to say.

The only good thing is that I can leave my tank fallow for as long as I want to now. ��