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#1
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![]() I think if you are treating for ich with Paraguard, then you must go for at least 3 weeks, 4 weeks is more like it due to the life cycle of ich.
I always treat with Paraguard for 4 weeks and never had any problem with fish or their appetite. Since you started with Paraguard, it is probably best to continue with it and not do hypo. Quote:
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... |
#2
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![]() Quote:
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Hey! I never "LEFT" the hobby, just doing fresh water now. Which is still listed as part of Canreef if I'm not mistaken. ![]() |
#3
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![]() It didn't do much for me, I'm running the Coralife Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer already. Believe me, I pretty much tried everything. Ich hates me. Haha!
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It all started with ............. "Finding Nemo" ![]() |
#4
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![]() Quote:
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Hey! I never "LEFT" the hobby, just doing fresh water now. Which is still listed as part of Canreef if I'm not mistaken. ![]() |
#5
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![]() No such luck with that for me either. I've slowed the flow down through the UV by running it through my chiller first, and even with a gate valve. No difference for me, sadly to say.
The only good thing is that I can leave my tank fallow for as long as I want to now. 😊
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It all started with ............. "Finding Nemo" ![]() |
#6
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![]() How strong is that UV? you need at least 25 watt to really make an impression on parasites and a very slow flow in the UV, but with a large tank not all the water and parasites are going to go through the UV and those parasites on the fish are going to fall on the liverock as well as in the sand.
It is only in the free floating stage that they are susceptible to a UV and unfortunatly not all the larvaes are going to go through the UV. A lot of them are going to find a fish and attach before they get into a UV. I had one too with my discus and always has a fluke problem (resistant to prazi) but the UV did not do much so I sold it. It was a large pond UV of 25 watts with a huge lamp and it did not work even with very slow flow. Quote:
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... |
#7
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![]() So even after about 2 weeks of QT, my Purple Tang has Ich. It was doing great after 2 weeks up until I caught the Yellow Coris, Mystery Wrasse, and my Randall's Anthias and quarantined them all together.
The Purple Tang was covered in Ich as of last night, so this leads me to believe that Paraguard is great for prevention, but not curing Ich. Hyposalinity here I come! I drained about 3/4 of the QT out, topped up with RO/DI and finally got Salinity down to 1.008. As of this morning, majority of the Ich has disappeared from the Purple Tang. The other 3 fish show no signs of Ich nor stress from the Osmotic Shock Treatment. The plan is to Hypo treat for 6 weeks, and then monitor for an additional 4 weeks. Are there any tips for Hypo? I have 2 small filters going with just Filter Floss, about 10 lbs of LR, an airstone to help aerate the water, and a small powerhead to circulate water. I'm feeding with NLS Thera+ pellets, a couple strips of SeaVeggies, and half a cube of either Mysis or Spirulina Enriched Brine. I feed the pellets during the day and the frozen at night. I'm planning to do about 25% water changes every 2 days to export nutrients. Is there anything that I'm missing or that I should be aware of?
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It all started with ............. "Finding Nemo" ![]() |