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  #1  
Old 03-12-2012, 05:44 AM
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this is the information on the product I bought as it is on the bottom of the spec sheet
Quote:
Spa Flex Hose is designed to replace PVC pipe on Hot Tubs
and Spas. G941HT has the IAPMO plumbing safety approval
and uses the same external glue-on schedule 40 fittings
as rigid pipe but is much easier to install. Hose will bend
without heating and will follow the curves and corners on
a spa without having to use elbows. Spa Flex is ordered
by nominal pipe size.
Quote:
G941HT… SPA FLEX
Construction: Cream coloured, flexible PVC, embedded with a
rigid PVC helix.
Interior: Flexible PVC, smooth for unrestricted flow.
Exterior: Smooth, cream coloured, weather resistant PVC.
Temperature Range: -20°C (- 4°F) to 65°C (150°F).
Note: Please use a PVC-to-Flex cement for attaching PVC fittings
to hose. Suitable cements include:
– Permalite Plastic #VIC 504
– Uniflex Pipe Cement
– United Elchen 6700 Series PVC to Flex
– Weld-On #795 PVC/Flex.
And these are the specs I asked for
Quote:
size 11/2" model # G941HT-150 I.D. 1.65" O.D. 1.90"
And by measuring the ID and OD of what I bought I think they gave me the wrong size as it measures to the same specs as the 11/4" spaflex
Back to the store tomorrow to replace the size
  #2  
Old 03-12-2012, 07:55 PM
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Elias, that G941HT is the correct stuff. It is normal for it to seem sloppy after it cures. This is why it works so well.
Make sure you hold it in place for a few minutes while it starts to cure as it can slip apart much easier than rigid pvc.
Not sure what cement you plan on using, but anyone I talked to recommended Weld-On 795 and it worked well for me.
  #3  
Old 03-12-2012, 08:23 PM
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I bought mine from Western Pump. I just asked for 3/4" and 1" spa flex. It was very tight when I tried to put it in the the fittings dry. Once the glue is on, it goes in a little easier. I was told not to use primer so I didn't and no leaks so far.
  #4  
Old 03-12-2012, 08:34 PM
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The stuff in the catalog looks like standard spa flex to me but I don't recall it being sloppy within fittings, it's actually very hard to dry fit, needs glue to slide in as others have said.

Sounds like you're correct in your assumption, if it measures the same as 1-1/4" spa flex then that's probably what it is.
  #5  
Old 03-12-2012, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seriak View Post
I bought mine from Western Pump. I just asked for 3/4" and 1" spa flex. It was very tight when I tried to put it in the the fittings dry. Once the glue is on, it goes in a little easier. I was told not to use primer so I didn't and no leaks so far.
+1 .. there is a primer you can use if you want, also can be had from Western Pump.

When I google G941HT I see it looks like the same spaflex I'd get from Western Pump so I don't know what the heck that rubber hose page from greenline was all about. I'm going to blame DST. DST screws up everything. Stupid DST. Ask me a question tomorrow and hopefully I'll answer it better. That's my story and I'm sticking with it. DST.
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  #6  
Old 03-12-2012, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seriak View Post
I was told not to use primer so I didn't and no leaks so far.
Did someone just tell you this? Or is it in literature? The use of the primer with the solvent weld is some cases a must. But depends on application and which brand name. The only one I have seen even recommends a primer, but not a must, but only in a drainage application, not a pressure application. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Codfather View Post
Did someone just tell you this? Or is it in literature? The use of the primer with the solvent weld is some cases a must. But depends on application and which brand name. The only one I have seen even recommends a primer, but not a must, but only in a drainage application, not a pressure application. Just my 2 cents.
I read the tip in Brad's tank Journal and so I googled it and the general consensus was to not use primer for spaflex. So that is what I did.
  #8  
Old 03-12-2012, 09:35 PM
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I am a plumber... and I can tell you that primer is only meant to clean the pipe before applying the cement... It is not needed under such low pressure systems like our aquariums. I have used the spa flex well for my 220 gal tank upgrade and never used primer and have no issue's... The one thing about the spa flex to make you aware of... for the first month or so the flex line is almost slimy, but does not affect the water quality... if you have any questions feel free to pm me
  #9  
Old 03-13-2012, 02:01 AM
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Thanks guys and gals for your input on the spa-flex it turned out to be 11/4" and had to replace it with the right 11/2" witch fit tight now,Process is going a little slower than I expected and during all the cutting and moving a couple of rain barrels I sprung a leak that I had to clean about 75glns out the basement . And now I have a couple commercial fans running with all windows and doors open,a little chili.I must say,crazy as it might sound,have to enjoy this hobby to much to be able to go through all this
here are few photos of what is done so far.

50 feet roll of 1.1/5" spa-flex
Left side untouched



Cut out of the right side




Inside the aquarium room showing one shallow frag tank and on its right will have another 60glns frag tank to.


Full wall photo with the cut-out covering the 180glns
  #10  
Old 03-19-2012, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjntm View Post
I am a plumber... and I can tell you that primer is only meant to clean the pipe before applying the cement... It is not needed under such low pressure systems like our aquariums.

PVC cementing is a two part process, yes the primer cleans the fitting and pipe, but it is cleaning away oils, dirt, ect and the factory coating on PVC pipe and fittings. Also it acts as a bonding agent by making the surfaces softer allowing the glue to react and soak in to the PVC farther creating a stronger bond.

As for low PSI systems not needing it, PVC is only meant for low PSI systems, the 145 PSI cold is a max pressure, 99.9% of all PVC systems operate at under 70 PSI and probably the majority of that under 30 PSI which is where tanks can operate.

as for getting away with not using primer, .. ya you could, but you would have more leaks with out primer than you would with it. this is a design process shortcuts can work but they are never the right way to do anything.

for people who don't want the purple ugly primer look, (the main reason people want to not use primer) get clear primer and clear glue.

Steve
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