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View Poll Results: Do you use an Auto Top Off | |||
Nope |
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32 | 21.77% |
Yup |
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109 | 74.15% |
Stopped using due to overflow/malfunction/other |
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2 | 1.36% |
Uncertain |
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4 | 2.72% |
Voters: 147. You may not vote on this poll |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1
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![]() I guess it depends on how you set up your system. Just saying that with a strictly mechanical valve, a power failure is a total non issue, since that would also stop topping off. No doubt any power failure is going to cause more serious issues with lighting, heating, cooling etc. There are of course also battery backups & generators etc. Just relating my own experience with simpler set up, less to potentially go wrong. Not everyone is an electronics wiz & knows how to properly set up a complex, rendundant system with solenoids, switches & all, not to mention cost.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#2
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![]() Quote:
There's nothing complicated about such a system. 1. Install 1A rated (most common) float switch at desired location in sump. 2. Install 24VAC solenoid valve 3. Connect negative from 24VAC power supply to solenoid negative 4. Connect positive from 24VAC power supply to one wire from float 5. Connect other wire from float to solenoid positive. 6. Plug power supply into a digital timer set to turn on at desired time each day for just long enough to top tank off. That's it, if you want more security, the following two options are easy additions but not needed, system is perfectly safe without. 1. Additional solenoid, connect another solenoid directly to the other one (positive to positive, neg to neg). Plumb in series not parallel with the other one. 2. Additional float, install another float slightly higher than the first. Wire in series with the other one (power source to float 1 wire 1, float wire 2 to float wire 1, float 2 wire 2 to solenoid(s). As for cost: float: $5 Solenoid: $25 Power supply: $10 Timer: $20 Wire: $5 Plumbing parts for solenoid (if needed): $15 Tubing from RO to tank: $10 Total (on generous side): $90 With extra solenoid and float: $120 Not bad for an actual auto top off that doesn't require any space. Last edited by sphelps; 02-21-2012 at 02:45 AM. |
#3
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![]() Ok man, you got me, now I give up. My apologies to the OP.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 02-21-2012 at 04:17 AM. |
#4
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![]() I dont even trust those for my lights, let alone for something as important as an ATO
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#5
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![]() Quote:
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#6
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![]() my DIY auto top off consists of three float switches, two on my sump (one for redundancy) and one in the reservoir. 5v runs through these and actuate a relay for my pump. I would never trust it if I connected the pump directly to them. It works great so far.
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#7
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![]() I love mine. It is fed by a 5g bucket so even if it goes haywire (never has and hope never will) adding 5g of fw to a 165g with 90g wide sump will not have a major negative effect. I top it off every 4-5 days (glass covered display). This would not have worked on my 210g with 75g sump (all open top) cause I lost 3+g a day on that system.
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If you see it, can take care of it, better get it or put it on hold. Otherwise, it'll be gone & you'll regret it! |
#8
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![]() I have one of these:
http://autotopoff.com/ Its has never failed. Used to use a Tunzie, I was buying new pumps for it every 3 months until the controller gave up.
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Western Database - Custom database, software design and cloud hosting. |