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#1
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![]() Geez, another one.... I sure hate reading about this over and over....
If it is ich (sounds like it from your description), and you decide to QT, go the hyposalinty route, instead of chemicals that may do more harm than good. And hopefully you have a fully cycled canister that is available to prevent ammonia. With chemicals (other than copper, which is bad for other reasons), you get false hope, as it recedes temporarily, and then comes back worse, often in the gills, and your fish will die quickly. With hypo, the 2nd leg, if you get one is milder, and then you are home free after that. The fish are much happier in hypo. I've done both in the past, so not saying this from reading on the internet. I now QT religiously before adding new fish. Best of luck.
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#2
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![]() Lastlight, I believe it was transfered on the rock some of the corals were attached to.
Reef Pilot, I have treated Doofus already with copper when I first got him. Now he is a 10" fish and I don't think he will do well in a 20g hospital tank.....especially when he has 4 other tank mates that would have to be treated as well......I also don't have a tank big enough to house him for the required 8 weeks. He's going to have to get through this on his own and my house is going to smell like an italian restaurant again form all the garlic ![]() |
#3
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![]() Well, if your fish are healthy, chances are still good for a positive outcome. With my 1st episode, I didn't have a QT, and had no choice but to treat with some "reef safe" chemicals. Fortunately, none of my original fish died, but the new ones did.
The product I used then was Medic by Polyplab at triple dosage for a full month. The new fish didn't survive, but after a few iterations on my original tank residents, the ich finally went away. I did UV at the same time. So not saying this product works, but in my case, at least all my original tank inhabitants survived.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#4
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![]() try a product called rid-ich plus soaking food in garlic it is completely reef safe and will save you alot of headaches... i used it with my regal and was amazed
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Desperately seeking serenity ... 180g custom build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=81400 50g custom daycare tank... http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=65428 |
#5
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![]() I thought ich can only be spread through fish, not transfered any other way,
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#6
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![]() Quote:
http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/g...ral_pagesid=78 This and many other articles discuss the treatment of fish and fish only, nothing with live rock or coral. As Ich penetrates the skin and gills of the fish, I don't think your ich is from your live rock or coral additions. Is there a doctor in the house to validate my claims? Hmmm, I just can't find anything to validate ICH from rock or coral.
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![]() Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#7
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![]() Quote:
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#8
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![]() +1
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#9
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![]() The reason your fish has ich is because it's stressed for some reason.
If you have a tank full of healthy fish and dumped a gallon of ich infested water, nothing would happen. |
#10
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![]() I am so sorry to hear that Marie. please keep us updated on how he does. I did recently gone through the same with my show achilles, unfortunately my guy didn't make it. Now I have a 4 inch spicement which also contracted ick. I am gonna try uv and protomarin and hope for the best. I guess best of luck for both of us.
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Though a tree grow ever so high, the falling leaves return to the root. 300DD - 140DD ![]() TOTM Fall 2013 |