![]() |
|
#1
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
I would put the heater in the sump not the overflow. When you shut your return off the you will have to unplug the heaters everytime as your over flow will drain. Where as in the sump you don't have to unplug them at all. Maybe this is an old school way of thinking and new heaters can be on in the free air, but I would never let my heaters be on while not in water. Last edited by parkinsn; 01-19-2012 at 03:37 PM. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Sorry I wasn't very clear.
I don't mean "the" overflow, I was referring to the sumps 3rd chamber being fairly small and with both the skimmer/return in there, the displacement was such that I couldn't fill it with enough water so that daily evap wouldnt be a risk, and still leave 3.5 inches cushion to prevent overflow in that chamber. Issue two with the sump, is the LFS help replaced my broken heater free of charge with the 22in Eheim Jagger, how ever its too large for the sumps 2nd chamber. Being free I wasn't about to "sqwuak" so I'll take and use for now, will buy a smaller that will fit in the sump and keep the no cost 22in Eheim as a reseerve/backup or incase somewhere down the road I "Upgrade"..Also why I went with the 8x54 T5HO instead of 6. |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Why not stand it up in a chamber that will remain at a constant level? Have a look at the heater and there will be a water line on it, it wont have to be fully submerged. With vortechs not having cords on them you would get a cleaner look as well if the heater was not in the dispaly.
Also, just a thought. Not sure what your water level is in the sump but you might want to bring your returns closer to the surface of the water to reduce the ammount of back syphon. If you have lots of room for the extra water then no worries. Looks like your about 1.5" under the water. With your footprint your looking at about 7g of water. Or drill a small hole just below the water surface in them. |
#4
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Welcome to Canreef. Nice tank your off to a great start. What kind of sand did you use it looks like a nice size?
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Thanks Big nose
![]() For sand I went with 60 pounds of Argonite and tried for a fairly even spread of about 1.5inches across the board. Have done a lot of FW over my life including a 3,000g Koi pond and I had tried salt many, many years ago and the mistakes and head aches I learned from that should have atleast prepped me this time. When I first started thinking about it back in December and started doing some reasearch I was pretty surprised at many of the advances/changes in thinking etc. So I gave it a fair bit of thought, tried to figure out where I could go for function and improve on later as well as area's where I could grow in/up to should that arise as well. And yet still seems like not a day has gone by when I havent thought...Ooops should have thought of/realised that sooner....and still so much to learn. Hoping in a years time I have the beginnings of a nice mix reef but will always be more fish oriented..Its in my blood. |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Welcome to Canreef.
![]() |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Thanks Nastay, that helped
![]() Now that I see what you mean, it might be doable, I'll check the syphon breaks, and see where the water ends up post power outage/failure. J |
#8
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() ![]() Here is mine. I did not mean the sump overflow I meant the overflow in your display. It depends what kind of overflow you are using if it will work or not but if my return pump were to fail my overflow will not drain below the acceptable water line on my heater. If the power goes out your heater wouldn't run anyways but if your return pump fails you must make sure you know how far down your overflow will drain. Just test it and make sure the heater is below the final water line when the return pump is off. Just an idea |