Newbie to sw

[Madreefer]

Lots of people use T5's with great success.

Hard to answer your second question without knowing specifics. I'm sure if you put up a pic of the tank and sump to be drilled, than some of those that are good at those drawings with computers will be willing to help. You came to the right place for help. Lots of helpful and knowledgable people here.

[Kimmi7]

its a 4' long by about 2' tall and 18" wide tank. I dont have a sump yet as I am not sure what size to go with, was thinking 20g tall to a 30g tall. I'd like to have the type of sump that has the eco system in itself. I was thinking of drilling the holes on each end of the tank on the sides, as this will be in the family room and i have room for pipes on any sides. Thanks for the welcome. It actually was my boyfriends idea for a sw tank and we do have the empty one just sitting there lol

[intarsiabox]

Originally Posted by Kimmi7

its a 4' long by about 2' tall and 18" wide tank. I dont have a sump yet as I am not sure what size to go with, was thinking 20g tall to a 30g tall. I'd like to have the type of sump that has the eco system in itself. I was thinking of drilling the holes on each end of the tank on the sides, as this will be in the family room and i have room for pipes on any sides. Thanks for the welcome. It actually was my boyfriends idea for a sw tank and we do have the empty one just sitting there lol

When designing your sump leave enough room in the top section to fill up with water from the display tank when your return pump gets shut off. Your return line will siphon water back down into the sump until it drains the main tank down far enough to let air into the line, thus breaking the siphon. A check valve can prevent this but check valves can fail and you will be thankfull that the sump can handle the backflow.

A sort of related subject is hang on the back overflows that use a siphon system. Some people use these so they don't have to drill the tank. The draw back is that if the siphon fails your return pump will still keep pumping water out of your sump until it is dry and will likely overflow your display tank onto your floor.

[Edmonton newbie]

those dimentions are for a 90 gal tank. as far as a sump i would look at as big as you can to fit in the stand. 6 bulb t5 fixture will be more than enough to get you up and running. just remember you need to replace those bulbs evry 8-12 months. start slow and be patient. i know it was stated earlier but i would look at building the overflow rather than drilling this tank, when the upgrade bug bites in 6 or 8 months then you can have one built to your specs with the overflow that you decide you like lol

[Vitaminz]

Here is my 2 cents worth...ok maybe alot more cents then that, but who is counting???

If you are going to drill, make sure the type of glass you drilling into (aka don't drill into tempered glass) I would also recommend drilling in the bottom if possible so it is gravity feed, but if the bottom is tempered, then you will have to drill in the sides. I have done the overflow thing before and flooded my office on the second floor. Wasn't a pretty situation. If you are going to drill make sure you place bulk heads inside the tank, to prevent overflowing if a pump fails.

As for lights, I have run both T5HO and MH and to be honest, I would go back to the MH every time. Just the shimmer it produces and the growth in corals, you can't beat. In saying that, my current light is both T5HO and MH, best of both worlds. My recommendation is spend the money on a good lighting set-up, or be forever caught up in the upgrading path as I was. Good colour coral requires good lighting.

Anyways that is my cents worth, you will find vary opinions when it comes to this hobby, and what works for one tank, might not work for somebody else's.

Jeff

[Kimmi7]

well looks like I will be putting this on hold till I find a new tank. Mine looks like tempered glass and dont want to try to see if it isnt by drilling. Oh well just means I can go bigger for my angels, then get bigger with the reef tank.

So what is the benfits of moon lighting on a reef tank? I will be saving up for a great light set now that I am going with a different tank, as I dont like the look of hob anything anymore that i found canister filters. (will be doing sump)

With drilling into the bottom wouldnt that cause a overflow when and if power goes out? as water runs downhill lol. just dont want to have to pull up carpet in the new house just yet.

So if I was going to do a 90-125 gallon tank, I believe I would be needing around 1000gh for movement to get 7x hr?

[RedCoralEdmonton]

Hi Kimmi,

If you want come down to the store and I can give you the crash course in salt water keeping and setup options! As well we have a brand new predrilled eurobraced 90 for sale for $315, and predrilled eurobraced 75s for $247.50! this week only!

Steve

[mike31154]

Originally Posted by Kimmi7

well looks like I will be putting this on hold till I find a new tank. Mine looks like tempered glass and dont want to try to see if it isnt by drilling.

Perhaps not, unless you really wish to spend money on a newer, larger tank. IME, tank ends up being least of cost in the hobby in the long run, but every little saving helps, so up to you.

If your 77 is a Hagen, according to the FAQs on their web page, none of their tanks use tempered glass. A way to confirm tempered is to use two polarized filters, one from outside of pane (polarized sunglasses) looking at a polarized LCD screen (like a notebook or even phone) with a white screen. Rotate the screen & if pattern appears on white LCD screen, glass is tempered.

http://faq.hagencrm.com/details.asp?kbfaqid=21880&en

My 77 is a Hagen (company sticker on trim, no center brace) & the width is 16 & 1/8th inches, glass thickness is 3/8 inches. I plan to drill it & use as a sump/refuge when I upgrade display tank some time in future. I've already drilled a used 65 gallon for a sump as well (confirmed non tempered sides with polarized trick), not that difficult, especially when it's empty & sitting around doing nothing. Bottom of the 65 is tempered, & a sticker there says that. I also confirmed this with polarized filter method.

[sunoka]

What make is the tank ?? odds are the glass is not tempered and if it is it will likely only be tempered on the bottom if any. I have a 77 gal and there is not a pc. of temp glass.

Originally Posted by Kimmi7

well looks like I will be putting this on hold till I find a new tank. Mine looks like tempered glass and dont want to try to see if it isnt by drilling. Oh well just means I can go bigger for my angels, then get bigger with the reef tank.

So what is the benfits of moon lighting on a reef tank? I will be saving up for a great light set now that I am going with a different tank, as I dont like the look of hob anything anymore that i found canister filters. (will be doing sump)

With drilling into the bottom wouldnt that cause a overflow when and if power goes out? as water runs downhill lol. just dont want to have to pull up carpet in the new house just yet.

So if I was going to do a 90-125 gallon tank, I believe I would be needing around 1000gh for movement to get 7x hr?

[intarsiabox]

T5HO fixtures are fine for SW. A 6-8 bulb 54W fixture would allow you to grow most corals with proper placement and give you enough sockets to put different types of bulbs in to create an effect that you like personally and will grow coral. There are many brands and colors that people like and numerous threads about color combinations that people use.

As far as drilling holes there are many options, one hole in each bottom corner, 2 holes in one bottom corner , a hole in each top back corner, etc. It depends on what type of overflow system you choose. There are durso's, herbie's and bean animal's most commonly. The return line doesn't need to be drilled if you don't want, just use a couple of PVC 90 elbows to have it hang over the top edge of the tank.

Lots of info to research and choose from out there, good luck!