Grizz's DIY Heat sink & LED build / showing all colors

[The Grizz]

Could it be the optics that give them the disco affect?

[intarsiabox]

Originally Posted by The Grizz

Could it be the optics that give them the disco affect?

Probably, if the optics concentrate the light to a focused beam. With a wide spread I think the red and green would just blend in. The echotech lights have red and green and I haven't heard anyone complain about a disco effect with them.

[Seth81]

yes optics can cause disco effects but also running the reds at a high current and having them too spread out. if I were going to include red leds I would make sure I put them on a dimmable driver for sure.

On the RC thread two people said that they wouldn't bother with the red led's but would just use natural white led's.

I guess everyone has their own opinion. I personally want to keep the number of channels of light down to minimum simplicity. but I still would love to see what your tank looks like I'm your new lighting. and maybe some pictures of you playing around w:ith the levels.

[The Grizz]

I have a Profilux controller and have several channels to utilize but in the end if I don't like them there easy to change & Martin is right here in Red Deer so I can get a different color.

I hope to build the mounting rack soon, get it all wired & fire these bad boys up.

[claymax]

heres the nano reef thread similar to the reef central one mentioned earlier on LED aesthetics.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/inde...owtopic=246394


their genral consensus is 2:1 royal blue:neutral white with supplemental blue(or cool blue as they call in the thread) gives the best overall look, there are mentions of good results with adding deep red (660) and true violet as well.

its a good read if you have the time, alot of time.

[BigAl07]

Great build thread. Here are some things I'd be careful about:

• A) Fin to sheet contact - but I think you're already going to address that
• B) Your fans will be ineffective for the fins outside of 12 or so channels they are blowing directly into. I don't think you'll have a problem on the ends of those channels but I can't see how any air will move in the outer (7 or so ) channels on the front and back.

You're gonna LOVE controlling your lights with your ProfiLux. It's a breeze to get them "controlled" once you plug them into open "L" ports on your ProfiLux. You can dial them in from 1% to 100%. Right now I'm testing mine at 10% and I think I've still burned the retinas of all my neighbors.

How long does it take for your thermal adhesive to set up when attaching your LED chips to the heatsink?

[eli@fijireefrock.com]

Nice setup Greg I just skimmed through this write up a couple thing to think about as I went through it when I did my build.
1) I don't think you have enough air flow to cool your entire heat-sink if you run the LED at full blast.
2) I raised my fans about 2" over the heat-sink as this will spread the air flow through the entire array and had them mounted on the top cover with full enclosure except the sides,keeping in mind I used 2 x 120w 4" fans for my array witch holds at least 60 LED (too lazy to count now running full power 1500Ma for whites and 1000Ma for royal blue)
3) If you are gluing the LED on the heat-sink I would use Arctic silver thermal adhesive as I read it in the past to be the best product for heat transfer and use as little as possible.
Originally I had optics on all LED and yes if your setup is close to the water you will have a disco affect,I see 2 ways to have it running without the disco dancing water put optics on all white and blue LED and none on the other colors as this will give your colors a 180 degree spread.
You are more than welcome to come by and investigate my array

[The Grizz]

Thank guys for the constructive input.

I am not totally done with the fans just yet. Martin & I were checking them before he left for Ireland for Xmas & we both think there will be enough air flow to go around but I have been thinking of adding a 3rd fan & adding in some pieces to direct the air flow into all fins.

I haven't picked up the AlumiFix yet but need to this week so I can work on them over the holidays. Also have to build the frame to support the heat sink.

I will be putting optics on all the whites ( 45 degree ) & blue ( 60 degree ) but not on the Reds or Greens. My heat sinks well be between 10" - 12" above water level & I doubt it very highly that they will be ever at 100%.

Martin also supplies the Arctic Siler to attach the LEDs to the heat sink so that's covered too.