250 watt HQI ballast.

[BCOrchidGuy]

Thanks Tony, I like how this stuff is nice and clear... (oh boy)

Doug

[Delphinus]

LOL no doubt.

Steve, how did you find working within the 5' limit. I assume you found a way to live with it? Where do you keep/hide your ballasts?

[StirCrazy]

Originally Posted by Delphinus

LOL no doubt.

Steve, how did you find working within the 5' limit. I assume you found a way to live with it? Where do you keep/hide your ballasts?

I don't hide them they are ontop of my stand in a big mettal box, I am thinking of extending the wood work to the celing so that would completly hid them but no one realy notices them as you have to look up to see it and even then it isn't that noticable.

Steve

[BCOrchidGuy]

Steve I just got off the phone again with Albrite, the guy I spoke with check the Advance part number for the M80 ballast and gave me the same part number you did. I asked him if he had the part number for the ignitor and cap, the cap he didn't but said it's a 20microfarad cap/280v which corresponds with the advanced catalouge. The Ignitor is the same part number as out of the advanced Cat.

Doug

[ron101]

I checked out the advance spec sheet. It lists the M80 ballast as 'dual'. I assume that means that it is dual transformer design but it still only runs one lamp.

So I will need to order two correct?

[Delphinus]

Originally Posted by ron101

So I will need to order two correct?

If you have two bulbs you want to fire, yes. One ballast per bulb, can't get around that one unfortunately. What they mean by "dual" (or "tri" or "quad") is the number of "taps." "Dual tap" means a lead for if you want to run it off a 110V circuit, and another in case you want to run it off a 220V circuit (they share the "common" either way). "Tri tap" would mean 110V, 220V, or 360 (?? not sure, something in the 300's anyhow) and "quad" means 110, 220, 360, or 480.

It depends on the application and what kind of power supply ya got in your location but basically for our needs we're just interested in the 110V tap. I suppose one could run a dryer or stove circuit and use the 220V tap but I don't know if there would be any real benefit to it.

[Buccaneer]

That brings up a interesting question as to whether there is a advantage to running the ballasts on the 220V ... anyone out there have a comment on this ?

Cheers

[powerboy]

the only advantage to using 220v is the amperage drawn is half of what 110v would be. now this doesnt mean less electricity consumed, only less amperage, as 110v is drawn from each leg of the duplex recepticle.

you will have to keep in mind that if you do go this route, you will have to get a dual pole breaker in your panel (or sub panel, depending on application) and run the appropriate wire.

does all this equate to a worthwile venture? depends on how many bulbs (and size) you plan to run.

what you could do, is run a 220v sub panel to your tank area, then wire it up so the lights are on their own 220v breaker(s) and pumps heaters etc are on 110v breaker(s). this will give you the advantage of drawing fewer amps on the lights while utilizing one circut from the main panel.. eliminating trying to find different circuts to equalize the existing load..

may cost you a little bit up front, but you have the safety and convenience of one place to draw power from, and individual breakers to rely on so excessive load does not become a factor

hope this helps...

[ruck'n'reefer]

Tag

[Buccaneer]

Originally Posted by powerboy

the only advantage to using 220v is the amperage drawn is half of what 110v would be. now this doesnt mean less electricity consumed, only less amperage, as 110v is drawn from each leg of the duplex recepticle.

you will have to keep in mind that if you do go this route, you will have to get a dual pole breaker in your panel (or sub panel, depending on application) and run the appropriate wire.

does all this equate to a worthwile venture? depends on how many bulbs (and size) you plan to run.

what you could do, is run a 220v sub panel to your tank area, then wire it up so the lights are on their own 220v breaker(s) and pumps heaters etc are on 110v breaker(s). this will give you the advantage of drawing fewer amps on the lights while utilizing one circut from the main panel.. eliminating trying to find different circuts to equalize the existing load..

may cost you a little bit up front, but you have the safety and convenience of one place to draw power from, and individual breakers to rely on so excessive load does not become a factor

hope this helps...

Thanks for the explanation

Cheers