can someone teach me lol.

[Nano]

Hey guys, still no sign of any ich in my clown all though I'm sure he is still carrying. I am setting up a quarentine for adding any future fish to the tank I am going barebottom with a few lbs of LR. My question is hyposalinity, how do I do it? What's considered a good level for hypo and how should I go about acclimating the fish to it? Obviously I've never done this before so I'd like a bit of help. Since I'm only adding nano sized fish I have just got a 10 gallon that I've been waiting to set up for this.

[Leah]

Saltwaterseahorse anyone?

[Nano]

? Huh?

[Aquattro]

Originally Posted by nanomano

? Huh?

Leah obviously hasn't had her morning coffee yet....

[Myka]

A quarantine tank shouldn't have live rock in it. Just a heater, small powerhead pointed at the surface for good gas exchange, and some pieces of PVC for them to hide in. You can use black or white PVC, just the fittings or some pieces of pipe. Use at least 50% water from an established tank to fill the QT, and add a seasoned filter pad from the established tank as well. I like to use a SeaChem Ammonia Alert which works very well and lasts a year. I use AmQuel to detoxify ammonia when needed. Most ammonia test kits are not compatible with ammonia detoxifiers, but the Ammonia Alert is. You don't need a light on it, but you should have a lid of some sort because new and sick fish startle easily and are prone to jumping out.

For hyposalinity you HAVE TO use a refractometer to measure salinity as you need to be very accurate. Here is an ok link the hypo...wish I could find a better one: http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums...o-Hyposalinity

[Blom]

Another link:

http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...t-process.html

Google is your friend

[Nano]

Originally Posted by Myka

A quarantine tank shouldn't have live rock in it. Just a heater, small powerhead pointed at the surface for good gas exchange, and some pieces of PVC for them to hide in. You can use black or white PVC, just the fittings or some pieces of pipe. Use at least 50% water from an established tank to fill the QT, and add a seasoned filter pad from the established tank as well. I like to use a SeaChem Ammonia Alert which works very well and lasts a year. I use AmQuel to detoxify ammonia when needed. Most ammonia test kits are not compatible with ammonia detoxifiers, but the Ammonia Alert is. You don't need a light on it, but you should have a lid of some sort because new and sick fish startle easily and are prone to jumping out.

For hyposalinity you HAVE TO use a refractometer to measure salinity as you need to be very accurate. Here is an ok link the hypo...wish I could find a better one: http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums...o-Hyposalinity

Thanks myka. I got my refractometer thanks to blom. Now I just have to find somewhere to hide it from the wife. Apparently QT's count as fish tanks.

[Blom]

The key is to ensure the wife knows very little about reefkeeping... Cause then everything is a must to have. Im sorry dear but if I dont get *Blank* then everything may die.

Haha

[Nano]

Originally Posted by Blom

The key is to ensure the wife knows very little about reefkeeping... Cause then everything is a must to have. Im sorry dear but if I dont get *Blank* then everything may die.

Haha

Lol I do pull that trick Nd I get what I need but still fell that icy stare Haha. One day shell really hate me when I bump the cichlids into a 150 gallon long and do a 60+ gallon reef hahaha

[reefwars]

in order for hyposalinity to be any good to you you would have to start with the clown you have now unless your treating the clown with a copper based med??

hyposalinity is keeping your cown at a salinity that will keep it alive but kill off the ich parasites, it takes 6 to 8 weeks with 8 weeks seeing the best results.

hyposainity is done at 1.09 you can add your fish straight to hyposalinity in an emergency but its best to slowly lower the salinity by adding more top off water than evaporaton.


the fish has to remain there for at minimum 6 weeks after that you have to raise the salinity very slowly 0.01 ppm per day or by using a drip system.


watch your ph throughout the whole lowering and raising process and always keep the temp stable.

you can use liverock in your hyposalinity treatment but any inverts will surely persih but bacteria will make it so it will help in keeping converting the amonia.


water changes are important but must be done with a refractometer or your salinity levels will rise and fall which is not good for the fish in question and will only help the parasite.

no sand as ich will drop off in to the sand if they feel under attack and lay their eggs and then more ich will appear when you think they are gone.

its important to use visuals to make sure your fish is eating ,free of ick and swimming and breathing normally.

if you raise the salinity to fast the fish will suffer from low oxygen.


feed garlic soaked foods while in qt.

you should see some immediate results from your fish as soon as he hits hyposalinity but remember ich can stay hidden in the gills or ensyst and fall off waiting to lay more eggs during this they are not visible so one should always assume the ich is there untill the appropriate time is reached in hypo.


your display must remain fallow for at least 8 weeks before entering any fish including the one from hypo or the treatment is completely pointless, this process is very important and being impatient is not a good thing when doing hypo.


some of the most common problems in doing hypo is not staying in it long enough,temp fluctuations,not using a refractometer,only treating "the sick fish" ,adding sand to the h tank, not testing twice a day for amonia and ph.



hypo is imo the best treatment for fish but keep in mind it can be stressfull, theres alot of things that can go wrong, and has to be done for all new additions to work. a healthy fast swimming fish can usually beat the parasite if the enviroments are right...no bullying, low stress,variety in food and pristine water conditions


im sure theres some things im missing but this is the jist of it cheers


ps.....a bigger tank then 10g would go better for you as its easier to maintain water parameters in a larger tank and theres more hiding places and room to swim. 30 g would be a better size for nano fish and 40g and up for larger fish over 5"....this is just my experience and findings and im sure results happen in different ways for different people so just read all you can and make your own choices but the basics are always the same

cheers and good luck