Staining Tips?....

[The Grizz]

What brand of stain? 2 -1 stains are just color and top coat protection not sealers. A sealer makes it easier to stain and sand out any drip spots like you are describing.

[Mrfish55]

+1 on the sealer, if you don't use a conditioner on pine it will not stain evenly, personally I hate the 2 in 1 products, use a pre stain conditioner as per directions on the can, then stain and allow full 24 hours dry time prior to clear coating, light sanding between coats of clear should give a nice finish.

[fishytime]

+1 to Mr fish..........and then, take your time and do several coats of clear.....this is where most people loose patience and only do one or two coats of clear.....more coats will give it that "deep, furniture quality" shine .....a couple coats will give it that "I made it myself" look and leave the finish more prone to salt damage......in fact, it might a good thing to consider a marine grade clear....

[Maverick00]

The brand of stain im using is 2in1 minwax stain with a polyurethane coating mixed in. I dont think im suppose to rub this stuff off after brushing and so far im having mixed results. The second coat went on ok but im getting tiny bubbles or pin sized hard spots, not sure what it is. I like how quick this is working but not 100% satisfied with the results. Maybe this is what you guys mean without using the conditioner. Is there a brand you guys would recommend if i try the conditioner/stain/ then clear? Thanks

[The Grizz]

I have used the same stuff on both my tanks so far. You need to use the MinWax Wood Conditioner, it's an absolute must & NOT the water based stuff. Apply the conditioner, let soak in for the recommended time then wipe off excess & let dry for time stated on can. Apply the first coat lightly, allow to dry for time on can and then rub down with a fine steel wool. Apply 2nd coat, let dry & rub down again. Applet 3rd coat and your done. I let each coat dry for at least 24 hrs.

And with that procedure you will have totally water proofed your stand.

Here's a couple pics of mine, made of Birch & Oak

[Maverick00]

so one coat of the conditioner, then 3 coats of the minwax stain im currently using? Perfect, ill give that a shot tomorrow, thanks man

[Maverick00]

wow looks great! another question though, why steel wool instead of just 220 sandpaper?

[The Grizz]

You got it, apply the conditioner liberally & make sure not to use a cloth that will leave any lint, it's a biatch to get off after wards.

[Mrfish55]

Minwax makes a good product, I just don't like the 2in1 products, in my experience you get the best finish by taking your time and following all the steps, any multi product is designed to reduce steps, thus saving time and ultimately the resulting finish suffers and it shows in the end result. Pine is one of the more difficult woods to get an even finish, any reputable paint store should be able to help you with product selection and application. As I mentioned in my original reply, pre-stain conditioner, then stain, allow at least 24 hrs dry time then coat with 3-4 coats of clear polyurethane allowing sufficient dry time with a light sanding between coats, follow manufacturer recommendations on product application, I do have a compressor and spray my clear coats giving me the best finish. Also make sure you have a warm dry area to apply your finish, this time of year the high humidity and cool temperatures wreak havoc with most finishes, slowing dry time and clouding finish clear coats.

[The Grizz]

Originally Posted by Mrfish55

Minwax makes a good product, I just don't like the 2in1 products, in my experience you get the best finish by taking your time and following all the steps, any multi product is designed to reduce steps, thus saving time and ultimately the resulting finish suffers and it shows in the end result. Pine is one of the more difficult woods to get an even finish, any reputable paint store should be able to help you with product selection and application. As I mentioned in my original reply, pre-stain conditioner, then stain, allow at least 24 hrs dry time then coat with 3-4 coats of clear polyurethane allowing sufficient dry time with a light sanding between coats, follow manufacturer recommendations on product application, I do have a compressor and spray my clear coats giving me the best finish. Also make sure you have a warm dry area to apply your finish, this time of year the high humidity and cool temperatures wreak havoc with most finishes, slowing dry time and clouding finish clear coats.

Allowing each coat to completely dry for at least 12 hrs with this 2 - 1 is the key. I have done both 2 -1 and clear coat polyurethane and have found that with the clear coat it can some time have a yellowish affect if there is just the littlest thing off ( temp, coat thickness or humidity ) with the 2 -1 I have never in countered such affect.